On the sands at Guet n’dar tumult prevails. A confused throng, composed
of every type of negro, is gathered together, uttering a babel of all
the languages of the Soudan. There, throughout the year, is held a
great market, crowded with people from all parts of Africa, and every
imaginable article is offered for sale—precious things, absurd things,
merchandise useful and fantastic, the most incongruous wares, gold and
butter, meat and unguents, live sheep and manuscripts, prisoners and
porridge, amulets and vegetables.
One side of the picture is framed by an arm of the river, St Louis in the
background, with its straight lines, its Babylonian terraces, its white
limewash splashed with brick red, and here and there the yellow crest of
a palm tree, erect against the blue sky.
On the other side lies Guet n’dar, the negro ant heaps, with its
thousands of pointed roofs.
Close by caravans are halting, camels lying on the sand, Moors unloading
their bales of ground nuts and their fetish pouches of wrought leather.
Pedlars of both sexes are crouched on the sand, laughing and quarrelling,
jostled and trodden upon, they and their wares, by their customers.
“_Hou! dièndé m’pât!_” ... (women selling sour milk out of goatskins sewn
together, with the hair on the inner side).
“_Hou! dièndé nébam!_” (butter sellers—women of the Peuhle tribe, with
great, three-cornered chignons, ornamented with copper discs—diving with
both hands for their merchandise into vessels of hairy goatskin—rolling
it between their fingers into little grimy balls, sold at a halfpenny
each—then wiping their paws on their hair).
“_Hou! dièndé kheul!... dièndé khorompolé_” (women selling simples,
little bundles of enchanted herbs, lizard tails, and roots with magic
properties).
“_Hou! dièndé tchiakhkha!... dièndé djiareb!_” ... (women squatting on
the ground selling grains of gold, fragments of jade, amber beads, silver
frontlets—all spread out on the ground on pieces of dingy linen and
trodden upon by the customers).
“_Hou! dièndé guerté!... dièndé khankhel! dièndé jap-nior ..._” (women
selling pistachios, live ducks, absurd eatables, meat dried in the sun,
sweet pastes, devoured by flies).
Women selling salt fish, pipes, things of every description; old jewels;
old dirty verminous pagnes robbed from the corpse; Galam butter, used for
frizzling the hair; little old tails of hair, cut or torn from the heads
of dead negresses, and plaited and gummed ready for use just as they are.
Women selling grigris, amulets, old guns, gazelles’ dung, old copies of
the Koran, annotated by pious Marabouts of the desert; musk, flutes, old
silver-handled daggers, old iron knives that have already been plunged
into men’s vitals; tom-toms, giraffes’ horns, and old guitars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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