From time to time on this bank appeared groups of men of pure white
race—wild-looking and bronzed indeed, but with features of regular
beauty, and with long curling hair, which gave them a look of Biblical
prophets. They went bare-headed under that terrible sun, arrayed in
flowing robes of dark blue. These were Moors of the tribe of Braknas
or Tzarzas, bandits to a man, plunderers, robbers of caravans—the most
lawless of all the tribes of Africa.
XIII
The east wind, which is like the mighty respiration of the Sahara, had
sprung up, gaining strength by degrees as the distance from the sea
increased.
This parching wind, hot like a blast from a forge, now blew across the
desert. It covered all things with a fine sandy dust, and brought with
it the burning thirst of _Bled-el-Ateuch_. The awnings that sheltered
the spahis had to be continually watered by a negro, whose hosepipe
traced rapid arabesques which disappeared as quickly as they were made,
evaporating almost immediately in the parched atmosphere.
And now the ship was approaching Podor, one of the largest towns on the
river, and the Sahara bank began to show signs of life.
This was the entrance to the country of the Douaïch, shepherds grown rich
through cattle raids upon the negro territory.
These Moors used to swim their long caravans across the Senegal, driving
before them the stolen cattle. Presently camps came into view, pitched
upon the never-ending plain. The camelskin tents, stretched between
wooden stakes, resembled huge bats’ wings spread out upon the sand; they
formed weird patterns of an intense black in the midst of a country
that was of a uniform, unvarying yellow. Everywhere there were somewhat
increased signs of animation, of activity and life.
On the banks larger groups of people came running to see the ship.
Moorish women, beautiful, copper-coloured creatures, half dressed, with
frontlets of coral, trotted up, sitting astride their small, hump-backed
cows; and often there were children scampering along behind them on tiny
frisky calves; naked children, their heads shaven, except for great tufts
of flowing mane, their bodies tawny and muscular as those of young satyrs.
* * * * *
XIV
Podor is an important French post on the southern bank of the Senegal,
and is one of the hottest places in the world.
It is a strong fortress, fissured by the heat of the sun. A street,
tolerably shady, runs alongside the river; it consists of a few houses
that are old already and sombre of aspect. You may see there some French
farmers of revenue, yellow with fever and anæmia; Moorish or negro
pedlars squatting on the sand; all the costumes and amulets known to
Africa; sacks of ground nuts, bales of ostrich feathers, and elsewhere
ivory and gold dust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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