The Scientific Tourist through Ireland: in which the traveller is directed to the principal objects of antiquity, art, science & the picturesqueWalford, Thomas
History
The Scientific Tourist through Ireland: in which the traveller is directed to the principal objects of antiquity, art, science & the picturesque
Walford, Thomas
Ireland -- Description and travel
horizon to unite its azure surface with the fainter coloured sky: to
the S. is seen Cape Clear; to the N. are the blue Dingle mountains,
M'Gillicuddy's reeks immediately towering above the spectator, whilst
the eye, glancing towards the interior of the island, catches a partial
view of the far distant Galtee mountains of Tipperary. Grand as this
panorama must be, the guides will hold out a strong temptation to the
adventurous tourist to attempt the enjoyment of one still finer by
the ascent of M'Gillicuddy's reeks, from whence the harbour of Cork
appears like a map extended at the spectator's feet, whilst to the S.W.
may be seen many of those huge headlands which form so conspicuous a
feature in that part of the Irish coast. Here too the Dingle mountains
dwindle into mere hills, and Brandon hill, which, when near it, seems
so tremendous, now appears little more than a hillock; whilst the
eye passes over Tralee bay as a small indentation of the sea, hardly
worth while to notice, and lost in the extent of the bay of Galway
and the mountains which surmount it. In short, says Mr. Wakefield--an
observation highly deserving the tourist's attention--those who go to
Killarney without ascending _one_ of those commanding heights, though
they may come away delighted with the high gratification derived from
the rich scenery of Mucruss, the beautiful appearance of the islands
emerging from the crystal flood, and astonished by the singularly wild
and rugged views which the Upper Lake affords; yet will they know
nothing of those grand, awful, and sublime scenes exhibited by nature,
where objects of the most terrific kind are united in the wildest and
most fantastical manner, exciting sensations not easily described in
the mind of the admiring spectator. Nor will the ascent of Mangerton
be found a difficult task even to the most timid: for various gulleys,
hollowed out by the winter torrents, afford a road so easy, that the
greatest part of the ascent may be accomplished on horseback. The
tourist must expect to find his expenses considerable: he must carry
his own provisions; and is expected to find provisions for his guides,
or pay 2s. each per day extra. These guides will also force themselves
upon him to a much greater extent than is necessary. The rates of the
boats are regulated by Lord Kenmare's order; but the boatmen always
expect more. The most remarkable objects in the vicinity are Aghadoe,
2 m. from Killarney, with fine view of the lake, with ruins of Ch.;
at Ardtully, a geological curiosity of two rocks, one limestone upon
a gritty soil, the other grit upon a limestone basis; Blackstones,
a small village in the mountains amidst romantic scenery; Dunkerran
Castle, of high antiquity; Dunlo, already mentioned: Glanfesk valley
beyond the Upper Lake; Glanerought vale towards Kenmare bay, highly
picturesque and romantic: at Kilgarvan, near it, the Fairy rock, amidst
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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