The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
The Port of Peter and Paul—Wonderful Colouring of Kamchatka
Hills—Grand Volcanoes—The Fight at Petropaulovski—A Contrast—An
International Pic-nic—A Double Wedding—Bering’s Voyages—Kamchatka
worthy of Further Exploration—Plover Bay—Tchuktchi
Natives—Whaling—A Terrible Gale—A Novel “Smoke-stack”—Southward
again—The Liverpool of the East—Singapore, a Paradise—New
Harbour—Wharves and Shipping—Cruelties of the Coolie Trade—Junks
and Prahus—The Kling-gharry Drivers—The Durian and its
Devotees—Australia—Its Discovery—Botany Bay and the Convicts—The
First Gold—Port Jackson—Beauty of Sydney—Port Philip and
Melbourne.
Many English men-of-war have visited the interesting peninsula of
Kamchatka, all included in the China station. How well the writer
remembers the first time he visited Petropaulovski, the port of Peter and
Paul! Entering first one of the noblest bays in the whole world—glorious
Avatcha Bay—and steaming a short distance, the entrance to a capital
harbour disclosed itself. In half an hour the vessel was inside a
landlocked harbour, with a sand-spit protecting it from all fear of gales
or sudden squalls. Behind was a highly-coloured little town, red roofs,
yellow walls, and a church with burnished turrets. The hills around were
autumnly frost-coloured; but not all the ideas the expression will convey
to an artist could conjure up the reality. Indian yellow merging through
tints of gamboge, yellow, and brown ochre to sombre brown; madder lake,
brown madder, Indian red to Roman sepia; greys, bright and dull greens
indefinable, and utterly indescribable, formed a _mélange_ of colour which
defied description whether by brush or pen. It was delightful; but it was
puzzling. King Frost had completed at night that which autumn had done by
day. Then behind rose the grand mountain of Koriatski, one of a series of
great volcanoes. It seemed a few miles off; it was, although the wonderful
clearness of the atmosphere belied the fact, some thirty miles distant. An
impregnable fortress of rock, streaked and capped with snow, it defies
time and man. Its smoke was constantly observed; its pure snows only hid
the boiling, bubbling lava beneath.
With the exception of a few decent houses, the residences of the civil
governor, captain of the port, and other officials, and a few foreign
merchants, the town makes no great show. The poorer dwellings are very
rough, and, indeed, are almost exclusively log cabins. A very picturesque
and noticeable building is the old Greek church, which has painted red and
green roofs, and a belfry full of bells, large and small, detached from
the building, and only a foot or two raised above the ground. It is to be
noted that the town, as it existed in Captain Clerke’s time, was built on
the sand-spit. It was once a military post, but the Cossack soldiers have
been removed to the Amoor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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