The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
It has been said, “See Naples, and die!” The reader is recommended to see
the glorious Bay of San Francisco before he makes up his mind that there
is nought else worthy of note, because he has sailed on the blue waters of
the most beautiful of the Mediterranean bays. How well does the writer
remember his first sight of the Golden Gate, as the entrance to San
Francisco Bay is poetically named! The good steamer on which he had spent
some seventy-five days—which had passed over nearly the entire Atlantic,
weathered the Horn, and then, with the favouring “trade-winds,” had sailed
and steamed up the Pacific with one grand sweep to California, out of
sight of land the whole time—was sadly in want of coals when she arrived
off that coast, which a dense fog entirely hid from view. The engines were
kept going slowly by means of any stray wood on board; valuable spars were
sacrificed, and it was even proposed to strip the woodwork out of the
steerage, which contained about two hundred men, women, and children. Guns
and rockets were fired, but at first with no result, and the prospect was
not cheering. But at last the welcome little pilot-boat loomed through the
fog, and was soon alongside, and a healthy, jovial-looking pilot came
aboard. “You can all have a good dinner to-night ashore,” said that
excellent seaman to the passengers, “and the sea shan’t rob you of it.”
The fog lifted as the vessel slowly steamed onwards.
On approaching the entrance to the bay, on the right cliffs and rocks are
seen, with a splendid beach, where carriages and buggies are constantly
passing and repassing. On the top of a rocky bluff, the Seal Rock or
“Cliff” House, a popular hotel; below it, in the sea, a couple or so of
rocky islets covered with sea-lions, which are protected by a law of the
State. To the left, outside some miles, the Farralone Islands, with a
capital lighthouse perched on the top of one of them. Entering the Golden
Gate, and looking to the right again, the Fort Point Barracks and the
outskirts of the city; to the left the many-coloured headlands and cliffs,
on whose summits the wild oats are pale and golden in the bright sunlight.
Before one, several islands—Alcatraz, bristling with guns, and covered
with fortifications; Goat Island, presumably so called because on it there
are no goats. Beyond, fifty miles of green water, and a forest of
shipping; and a city, the history of which has no parallel on earth. Hills
behind, with streets as steep as those of Malta; high land, with spires,
and towers, and fine edifices innumerable; and great wharves, and slips,
and docks in front of all; with steamships and steam ferry-boats
constantly arriving and departing. And now the vessel anchors in the
stream, and if not caring to haggle over the half-dollar—a large sum in
English ears—which the boatman demands from each passenger who wishes to
go ashore, the traveller finds himself in a strange land, and amid a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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