The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
The antiquities of Cornwall have called forth a very considerable quantity
of learned literature, but, with the exception of the picturesque and
graphic matter furnished by Wilkie Collins, Philip Henry Gosse, and, in
lesser degree, by the writer just quoted, the county is not popularly
known. Mr. Collins’s description of Looe, an ancient Cornish fishing‐town,
will be read with interest. He says: “The first point for which we made in
the morning was the old bridge, and a most picturesque and singular
structure we found it to be. Its construction dates back as far as the
beginning of the fifteenth century. It is three hundred and eighty‐four
feet long, and has fourteen arches, no two of which are on the same scale.
The stout buttresses built between each arch are hollowed at the top into
curious triangular places of refuge for pedestrians, the roughly‐paved
roadway being just wide enough to allow the passage of one cart at a time.
On some of these buttresses, towards the middle, once stood an oratory, or
chapel, dedicated to St. Anne, but no traces of it now remain. The old
bridge, however, still rises sturdily enough on its old foundations; and,
whatever the point from which its silver‐grey stones and quaint arches of
all shapes and sizes may be beheld, forms no mean adjunct to the charming
landscape around it.
“Looe is known to have existed as a town in the reign of Edward I., and it
remains to this day one of the prettiest and most primitive places in
England. The river divides it into East and West Looe, and the view from
the bridge, looking towards the two little colonies of houses thus
separated, is in some respects almost unique. At each side of you rise
high ranges of beautifully‐wooded hills; here and there a cottage peeps
out among the trees, the winding path that leads to it being now lost to
sight in the thick foliage, now visible again as a thin serpentine line of
soft grey. Midway on the slopes appear the gardens of Looe, built up the
acclivity on stone terraces one above another, thus displaying the
veritable garden architecture of the mountains of Palestine, magically
transplanted to the side of an English hill. Here, in this soft and genial
atmosphere, the hydrangea is a common flower‐bed ornament, the fuchsia
grows lofty and luxuriant in the poorest cottage garden, the myrtle
flourishes close to the sea‐shore, and the tender tamarisk is the wild
plant of every farmer’s hedge. Looking down the hills yet, you see the
town straggling out towards the sea along each bank of the river in mazes
of little narrow streets; curious old quays project over the water at
different points; coast‐trade vessels are being loaded and unloaded, built
in one place and repaired in another, all within view; while the prospect
of hills, harbour, and houses thus quaintly combined together is closed at
length by the English Channel, just visible as a small strip of blue water
pent in between the ridges of two promontories which stretch out on either
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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