The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
Baron Hübner says in effect that at every step one takes there one asks if
it be not all a dream, a fairy tale, a story of the thousand‐and‐one
nights. Arriving there from San Francisco, the step from American to
Oriental civilisation is particularly noticed. The Baron refers
particularly to the courtesy and extreme cleanliness of the people. Even
the coolies, bearing great cases or baskets slung on bamboos resting on
their athletic shoulders, stop to chatter and laugh so pleasantly that
labour seems to have lost half its curse. “Misery,” says he, “is unknown
amongst them; so also is luxury.” If the Japanese have arrived at this
happy mean it would be a great pity to disturb their peaceful condition by
the introduction of a so‐called civilisation, and its attendant expenses
and new wants.
“What adds to the charm of the scene,” says the same authority, “is the
smiling look of the country, and the intense beauty, at this season
(summer), of the setting sun. The sky is positively crimson, with great
clouds of Sèvres blue; the long promontory of Thanagawa is inundated with
mother‐of‐pearl; and on the purpled violet sea the pale shadows of the
ships and junks stand out against the sky, the one rocked by the swell,
the others gliding across the water like phantoms.” The winter in Japan is
cold enough, as Mrs. Brassey discovered;(18) for icicles were hanging from
the shrouds and riggings of the _Sunbeam_.
Mrs. Brassey gives some life‐like pictures from Yokohama.
“Having landed,” says she, “we went with the Consul to the native town to
see the curio shops, which are a speciality of the place. The inhabitants
are wonderfully clever at making all sorts of curiosities, and the
manufactories of so called ‘antique bronzes’ and ‘old china’ are two of
the most wonderful sights in Yokohama. The way in which they scrape,
crack, chip, mend, and colour the various articles, cover them with dust,
partially clean them, and imitate the marks and signatures of celebrated
makers, is more creditable to their ingenuity than to their honesty.
Still, there are a good many genuine old relics from the temples and from
the large houses of the reduced Daimios to be picked up, if you go the
right way to work, though the supply is limited.
“Dealers are plentiful, and travellers, especially from America, are
increasing in numbers. When we first made acquaintance with the shops we
thought they seemed full of beautiful things, but even one day’s shopping,
in the company of experienced people, has educated our taste and taught us
a great deal; though we have still much to learn. There are very
respectable‐looking lacquer cabinets, ranging in price from 5s. to £20.
But they are only made for the foreign market. No such things exist in a
Japanese home.”
A really fine piece of old lacquer is often worth a couple of hundred
pounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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