The Sea Road to the East, Gibraltar to Wei-hai-wei: Six Lectures Prepared for the Visual Instruction Committee of the Colonial OfficeSargent, A. J. (Arthur John)
History
The Sea Road to the East, Gibraltar to Wei-hai-wei: Six Lectures Prepared for the Visual Instruction Committee of the Colonial Office
Sargent, A. J. (Arthur John)
Travel -- Guidebooks
Let us now land and learn something of the city and its 9
inhabitants. We stroll along Queen’s Road, the main artery of
the town from west to east, with its offices and shops and its
general air of prosperity. Then we turn off into a street running
upwards from the harbour; it is Pottinger Street, named after 10
Sir Henry Pottinger, the trainer of the treaty of 1842. The
tall houses and narrow roadway remind us that there is very
little level ground in Victoria and that space is valuable. We
could judge this also from the general views of the Peak which
we saw as we entered. Trade needs money, and there are various
banks in the city; one of the finest buildings is that of the
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, which is well known in England and
has a large branch in London. If we go into one of these banks
we find that many of the clerks and cashiers are native Chinese.
Here is the entrance to the Hongkong and Shanghai bank and 11
here is the back of the great block of fine buildings. The statue
in the corner is that of the late Queen Victoria, and the 12
figures in the foreground are Chinese women carrying pigs in
baskets. The whole of this area, with its open spaces, including
a cricket ground, and the mass of buildings which we saw from the
harbour, has been reclaimed from the sea. In one of the narrow
streets we may see something of native customs. It is New 13
Year’s Day, a great festival among the Chinese; all over the
ground there is a litter of crackers, and we may perhaps see them
solemnly firing a huge cracker in front of some important house
as a kind of New Year’s greeting. At a corner we come on a scene
which reminds us of London: the road is up and labourers are 14
at work, but here they are Chinese. Down on the water front is
another aspect of native life. Here we have a large population 15
living always in covered boats; there are millions of Chinese
living in this fashion on the rivers and waterways of the
mainland.
To see how the Europeans live we must leave the busier part
of the town and climb up the hill. Down below, in the native
quarter, the houses are crowded together and the air is close.
Higher up are trees and gardens and open spaces. Here is a 16
view from Battery Path, on our way up. We end our walk at 17
Government House, where we see the inevitable Chinese gardener at
work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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