The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
General
The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
Then we went to still another house. We saw at once that it was a
grander place than the two already visited, and we were simply
bewildered at the abundance of the graven brass and inlaid furniture,
rich rugs and general bric-à-brac, that filled a great reception-room.
Suddenly servants in Turkish dress appeared with trays of liqueurs--two
kinds, orange and violet--urging us to partake of the precious stuff,
without stint. Also, there were trays of rare coffee and dainty
sweetmeats, and we were invited to sit in the priceless chairs and to
handle the wonderful things to our hearts' content. We were amazed,
stunned. Oriental hospitality could go no further. Then in some subtle
manner--I don't remember how the information was conveyed, but it must
have been delicately, Orientally done--we learned that all this brass,
all these marvellous things, were for sale!
Did we buy them? Did we! David did not take more brass from Hadadezer
than we carried out of that Damascus residence, which was simply an
annex to a great brass and mosaic factory, as we discovered later.
Perhaps those strange liqueurs got into our enthusiasm; certainly I have
never seen our party so liberal--so little inclined to haggle and hammer
down.
But the things themselves were worth while. The most beautiful brass in
the world is made in Damascus, and it is made in that factory.
They took us in where the work was going on. I expected to see
machinery. Nothing of the sort--not a single machine anywhere. Every
stage of the work is performed by hand--done in the most primitive way,
by workmen sitting on the ground, shaping some artistic form, or with a
simple graving-tool working out an intricate design. Many of the workers
were mere children--girls, most of them--some of them not over seven or
eight years old, yet even these were producing work which would cause
many an "arts and crafts" young lady in America to pale with envy. They
get a few cents a day. The skilled workers, whose deft fingers and
trained vision produce the exquisite silver inlay designs, get as much
as a shilling. No wonder our people did not haggle. The things were
cheap, and they knew it.
In a wareroom in the same factory I noticed that one of the walls was
stone, and looked like Roman masonry; also that in it were the outlines
of two high arches, walled up. I asked Habib about it.
"Those," he said, "are two of the entrances to the Street called
Straight. We are outside of the wall here; this house is built against
it. The Straight street had three entrances in the old days. Those two
have long been closed."
It always gives me a curious sensation to realize that actual people are
living and following their daily occupations in the midst of
associations like these. I can't get used to it at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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