The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
General
The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
* * * * *
This is Sunday (the Christian Sunday), and I have been out for an early
morning walk. I took the trolley that starts near the hotel. I did not
care for a trolley excursion, but I wanted to see what a Damascus
trolley is like and where it went. It isn't like anything in particular,
and it didn't go anywhere--not while I was on it.
I noticed that it was divided into three sections, and I climbed into
the front one. The conductor motioned to me, and I understood that I had
made a wrong selection, somehow. A woman, veiled and bangled, climbed
aboard just then, and I understood. I was in the women's section--a
thing not allowed in Damascus. So I got back into the rear section, but
that wouldn't do, either. The conductor was motioning again.
I comprehended at length. The rear compartment was second class. He
wanted me to go in style. So I got into the middle compartment and gave
him a tin medal, and got two or three similar ones in change, and sat
there waiting for the procession to move. I waited a good while. There
was an Arabic inscription on the back of the seats in front of me--in
the place where, in America, it says, "Wait for the car to stop." I
suppose it says, "Wait for the car to start" in Damascus. We did that.
The conductor dozed.
Now and then somebody climbed on, but the arrivals were infrequent. I
wondered if we were waiting for a load. It would take a week to fill up,
at that rate. I looked at my watch now and then. The others went to
sleep. That is about the difference between the East and the West. The
West counts the time; for the East it has no existence. Moments, hours,
months mean nothing to the East. The word hurry is not of her language.
She drives her horses fast, but merely for pleasure, not haste. She has
constructed this trolley, but merely for style. It doesn't really serve
any useful purpose.
We moved a little by-and-by, and I had hopes. They were premature. We
crawled up in front of a coffee-house where a lot of turbans and fezzes
were gathered outside, over tiny cups and hubble-bubble pipes; then we
stopped. Our conductor and motorman got off and leaned against an
almond-tree and began gossiping with friends. Finally coffee came out to
them, and pipes, and they squatted down to smoke.
I finished my ride then; I shall always wonder where those other
passengers thought they were going, and if they ever got there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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