The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
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The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
By-and-by some of us discovered that our bags had not been put on the
train, so we drifted out to look for them. We found them here and there,
with from two to seven miscreants battling over each as to which should
have the piastre or two of baksheesh collectible for handing our things
from the carriage to the train. Such is the manner of graft in the Holy
Land. It lacks organization and does not command respect.
The station was a hot, thirsty place. We loaded up with baskets of
oranges, the great, sweet, juicy oranges of Jaffa--the finest oranges in
the world, I am sure--then we forgot all our delays and troubles, for we
were moving out through the groves and gardens of the suburbs, entering
the Plains of Sharon--"a fold for flocks, a fertile land, blossoming as
the rose."
That old phrase expresses it exactly. I have never seen a place that so
completely conveyed the idea of fertility as those teeming, haze-haunted
plains of Sharon. Level as a floor, the soil dark, loose, and loamy;
here green with young wheat, there populous with labor--men and women,
boys and girls, dressed in the old, old dress, tilling the fields in the
old, old manner; flocks and herds tended by such shepherds as saw the
Star rise over Bethlehem; girls carrying water-jars on their heads;
camel trains swinging across the horizon--a complete picture of primal
husbandry, it was--a vast allegory of increase. I have seen agricultural
and pastoral life on a large scale in America, where we do all of the
things with machinery and many of them with steam, and would find it
hard to plough with a camel and a crooked stick; but I have somehow
never felt such a sense of tillage and production--of communing with
mother earth and drawing life and sustenance from her bosom--as came to
me there crossing the Plains of Sharon, the garden of Syria.
It is a goodly tract for that country--about fifty miles long and from
six to fifteen wide. The tribes of Dan and Manasseh owned it in the old
days, and to look out of the car-window at their descendants is to see
those first families that Joshua settled there, for they have never
changed.
Our dragoman began to point out sites and landmarks. Here was the Plain
of Joshua, where Samson made firebrands of three hundred foxes and
destroyed the standing corn of the Philistines. The tower ahead is at
Ramleh, and was built by the crusaders nearly a thousand years
ago--Ramleh being the Arimathea where lived Joseph, who provided the
Saviour with a sepulchre. Also, it is said to be the place where in the
days when Samuel judged Israel the Jews besought him for a king, and
acquired Saul and the line of David and Solomon as a result. To the
eastward lies the Valley of Ajalon, where Joshua stopped the
astronomical clock for the only time in a million ages, that he might
slaughter some remaining Amorites before dark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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