The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
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The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
It was impressive, though. We were in Jerusalem, and if these were not
the very streets that Jesus trod, surely they were not unlike them, for
the people have not changed, nor their habits, nor their
architecture--at least, not greatly--nor their needs. Whatever was their
cry for baksheesh then, He must often have heard it, and their blind
eyes and their withered limbs were such as He once paused to heal.
I think we continued to descend gradually to the very door of the
church. It did not seem quite like the entrance to a church, and, in
reality, it is not altogether that; it is more a repository, a
collection of sacred relics, a museum of scriptural history.
We paused a little outside while the guide--his name was something that
meant St. George--told us briefly the story. Constantine's mother, the
Empress Helena, he said, through a dream had located the site of the
crucifixion and burial of the Saviour, whereupon Constantine, in 335
A.D., had erected some buildings to mark the place. The Persians
destroyed these buildings by-and-by, but they were rebuilt. Then the
Moslems set fire to the place; but again some chapels were set up, and
these the conquering crusaders enclosed under one great roof. This was
about the beginning of the twelfth century, and portions of the
buildings still remain, though as late as 1808 there came a great fire
which necessitated a general rebuilding, with several enlargements
since, as the relics to be surrounded have increased.
We went inside then. The place is dimly lit--it is always lit, I
believe, for it can never be very light in there--and everywhere there
seemed to be flitting processions of tapers, and of chanting,
dark-robed priests. Just beyond the entrance we came to the first great
relic--the Stone of Unction--the slab upon which the body of Christ was
laid when it was taken down from the Cross. It is red, or looked red in
that light, like a piece of Tennessee marble, and, though it is not
smoothly cut, it is polished with the kisses of devout pilgrims who come
far to pay this tribute, and to measure it, that their winding-sheets
may be made the same size. Above it hang a number of lamps and
candelabra, and with the worshippers kneeling and kissing and measuring,
the spectacle was sufficiently impressive. Then, as we were about to go,
our guide remembered that this was not the true Stone of Unction, but
one like it, the real stone having been buried somewhere beneath it. The
pilgrims did not know the difference, he said, and they used up a stone
after a while, kissing and measuring it so much. Near to the stone is
the Station of Mary, where she stood while the body of Jesus was being
anointed, or perhaps where she stood watching the tomb--it is not
certain which. At all events, it has been revealed by a vision that she
stood there, and the place is marked and enclosed with a railing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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