The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
General
The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
I suppose he had to go miles in that neighborhood for as much change as
that. I know we sat there in the sun and looked at all the curious
things in all the assortments about us, over and over, and discussed
them and wondered if Menelek would ever return. It became necessary at
last that he should do so. No vehicle could pass us in that narrow
thoroughfare, and in a string behind there was collecting as motley an
assortment of curiosities as ever were gathered in a menagerie. There
was a curious two-wheeled cart or dray, drawn by water-buffaloes, upon
which a man had his collection of wives out for an airing; there was a
camel loaded with huge water-jars until they projected out over the
heads of the selling people; there was a load of hay drawn by a cow;
there was a donkey train that reached back to the end of the street, and
what lay beyond only Allah knew.
The East is patient, but even the East has its limits. Presently we
began to be interviewed by dark men--camel-drivers and the like--who had
a way of flinging up their hands, while from behind came a rising tide
of what I assumed to be imprecation.
We were calm--that is, we assured each other that we were calm--and we
told them quite pleasantly how matters stood. The result was not
encouraging. One Bedouin grabbed the bridle, and I was at the point of
slaying him with my water-jar when at the same moment appeared a member
of the Cairo police--one of those with a tall red fez--also Menelek, our
long-lost Menelek, with the change, out of which there was baksheesh for
the discontented drivers. Everything was all right then. We headed the
procession. Behind us came the buffalo-cart--the wives, sandwiched fore
and aft and smiling--the camel with his distended load of jars; the
heaped-up little hay-wagon; the string of donkeys all in blue beads,
with heaven knows what else trailing down the distance. All the curses
were removed; all the drivers singing; traffic congestion in the East
was over.
One of the first things we had noticed in Egypt was the curious brass
spool affair which Arab women wear, suspended perpendicularly across the
forehead, from the head-gear to the top of their veil. It extends from
the nose upward, and has sharp, saw-like ridges on it, which look as if
they would cut in. When we asked about these things, we were told that
they were worn to avert the evil eye, also as a handy means by which the
husband may correct any little indiscretion on the part of one of his
wives. He merely has to tap that brass spool with his cane or
broomstick, or whatever is handy, and it cuts in and neatly reminds the
wearer that she is a woman and had better behave. Family discipline has
matured in this ancient land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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