The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
General
The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
Luxor, as a whole, is better preserved than Karnak. I suppose the
heaped-up débris kept the columns in position during the last ten or a
dozen centuries. I wish it had been there when the early Christian came
along. Cambyses of Persia, who burned everything that would burn in
Egypt, about 527 B.C., blackened the walls of this temple with fire, the
marks of which show to this day, but he was nothing to the followers of
Queen Helena. Even the guide-book, which is likely to be conservative in
any comment that may touch upon the faith of its readers, says
concerning the followers of Helena: "Not content with turning certain
sections of it into churches, the more fanatical among them smashed
statues, and disfigured bas-reliefs and wrecked shrines with
characteristic savage and ignorant zeal."[7]
There ought to be a painting or a marble group somewhere entitled "Early
Christian at Work"--a lean-faced, stringy-haired maniac with sledge,
murdering a symbolized figure of Defenceless Art in the Far East. The
early Christian is said to have destroyed forty-five thousand statues in
Thebes in one day.
Still, those statues may not matter so much--they were probably all of
Rameses the Great, and there are enough of him left. The Luxor Temple
had them in all sizes, and of all materials, from granite to alabaster.
Also some of "Mrs. Rameses," as Gaddis called her--no particular Mrs.
Rameses--there having been several of her; just a sort of generic type
of connubial happiness, I suppose. Mrs. Rameses, by the way, does not
cut much figure in the statuary. She usually comes only about to the
knee of the King, though she is life-size even then, for his own statues
are colossal, ranging anywhere from fifteen to fifty feet high. That was
to represent their difference in importance, of course, an idea which
the women members of our party seemed to disapprove.[8]
One of the statues of Rameses was found in a curious manner. A guide
only a little while ago was lecturing to a party of tourists, while a
young lady not far away was sketching a corner of the ruin. The sketcher
stopped to listen to the guide's talk, and when he had finished said to
the boy who was keeping the flies from her:
"Go up on that heap of rubbish and see what that stone is."
It was the rubbish that slopes down from the old mosque. The boy climbed
up, pulled away the trash, and uncovered the head of one of the most
perfect Rameseses yet discovered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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