Think of watering a whole wheat-field with a well-sweep and a pail! Furthermore, where the banks are high the water is sometimes lifted three times between the Nile and the surface, and much of it is wasted in transit. It is the oldest form of irrigation; the hieroglyphics show that it was in use in Egypt five thousand years ago. It is also still the most popular form in Upper Egypt. We saw a good many of the _sakkieh_--primitive and wasteful water-wheels propelled by a buffalo or a camel or a cow--and at rare intervals a windmill, where some Englishman has established a plantation, but it is the _shaduf_ that largely predominates. The mud villages among the date-palms are unfailingly picturesque; the sail-boats of the Nile--_markab_ they call them--drifting down upon us like great butterflies, have a charm not to be put in words; the life along the shores never loses its interest; the sun sets and the sun rises round the dreamy days with a marvel of color that seems each time more wonderful. Then there is the moonlight. But I must not speak of Egyptian moonlight or I shall lose my sense of proportion altogether, for it is like no other light that ever lay on sea or land. We do not travel through the night, but anchor at dusk until daybreak. It is curious to reflect that one sees the entire country on a trip like this, if he rises early. We do rise early, most of us--though the cool nights (nights are always cool in Egypt) and the stillness are an inducement to sleep--and we are usually very hungry before breakfast comes along. One may have coffee on the deck if he likes--the picturesque Arab will bring it joyfully, especially where there is a baksheesh at the end. It is good coffee, too, and the food is good; everything is good on the _Memnon_ except the beverages and the cigars. The wine could be improved and the cigars could be thrown away. I paid a shilling for one that was as hard as a stick and crumbled to dust when I bit it. Never mind the flavor. That brand was called "The Scarab." It should have been named "The Mummy"--it had all the characteristics. The pilot commands this boat--the captain merely conducts the excursion. The captain wears European dress and speaks English, but the pilot is Arab throughout--dark-faced, heavily turbaned, silent--watching the water like a sphinx. Now and then he makes a motion and says a word to the steersman at his side. Whenever we lie up or strike safe water he locates Mecca, prostrates himself, and prays. I should think his emotions would be conflicting at times. Doctrinally, of course, it is his duty to pray for the boat to sink and exterminate this crowd. Professionally, it is his duty to take us safely to Cairo. Poor old Abbas! how are you going to explain to the prophet by-and-by?