The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The day turned out very warm, so much so, that we were glad to get
shelter from the sun under our canvas until 3 o'clock, when we were
again in the saddle. The pass proved a fine valley, rich in grass.
Another long string of caravans was met with, most of the carts
empty, and bound from Urga to Dolonor. Why they were empty we could
not ascertain, but conjectured that they could not get loaded before
winter, of which the late severe weather had given them warning, and
that they were bound at all hazards to get home to winter quarters.
Some days before this we had picked up a young pilgrim, a lama, on
a journey to the great lamasery at Urga, there to pass a certain
time in study. The boy was performing a journey of between 200
and 300 miles alone and on foot. He carried nothing in the world
with him except the clothes on his back and a few musty papers
containing lama prayers, carefully tied up between two boards which
he carried in his bosom. He had no provisions with him, still less
any money, but depended solely on the well-known hospitality of his
countrymen for his daily bread and his night's lodging. I thought
there was something heroic in a boy of fifteen undertaking such a
journey under such circumstances, but the Mongols thought nothing
of it. Our caravan offered him a good opportunity of performing his
journey comfortably, which he at once and without ceremony availed
himself of. His first appearance was in one of our halts, where he
was discovered in the tent of our Mongols, as if he had dropped from
the clouds, and our three Mongols had thenceforth to fill two extra
mouths, which must have been a considerable tax on them. The boy
was at once placed on our effective staff, and we christened him
_Paga-lama_, or "Little Lama," a name not much relished at first,
but he soon became reconciled to it. The little lama had left his
mother's tent in summer, a few days before; winter had now overtaken
him--for there is no autumn or spring in Mongolia--and he was all
too thinly clad for such inclement weather. Our lama, seeing the
boy pinched with cold in these biting north winds, with the genuine
hospitality of a Mongol gave up one of his coats to him, thus
unconsciously practising a Christian precept to which few Christians
in my experience pay so much practical respect. The little lama's
loose leather boots, and particularly the felt stockings inside of
them, were considerably travel-worn; and, with all his management,
he could not keep his red toes covered from the cold. But he was
patient and enduring, and very thankful for what he had got. He
had no more long marches to make on foot, for our lama generally
contrived to put him on a camel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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