The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
_Tsagan_ meaning "white," we thought the name highly
appropriate, as we gazed the live-long day on their snow-clad
slopes. It was a trying day to all of us, and I never suffered so
much from cold. The sun seldom showed his face, and the air was
charged with black, heavy snow-clouds, which only the violence of
the wind prevented from falling. It was impossible to endure the
wind, either in cart or on horseback. There was nothing for it but
to walk, but that was no easy performance in the teeth of such a
gale, and we were fain to take shelter behind the carts, supporting
ourselves by holding on to them. I estimated that I walked twenty
miles in that way. The camels breasted the storm bravely, and even
seemed to enjoy it. The Bactrian camel, at least the Mongol variety,
is peculiarly adapted for cold climates. In a hot day he is easily
fatigued, and seems almost to melt away in perspiration under his
load (hence our constantly travelling at night, in the early part
of our journey, and resting in the heat of the day), but in cold
weather he braces himself up to his work, and the colder it gets,
the better he is.
We were entertained by the few travellers we met with alarming
accounts of the state of the river Tolla, which was said to be in
flood, and impassable. We paid little heed to such Job's comforters,
knowing the Asiatic proneness to figurative language; but our lama
was disconsolate, and began to look like a man who feels that some
great calamity is hanging over him.
On gaining the Tsagan-dypsy mountains we enter a long, narrow,
but very pretty valley, watered by the small river _Kul_, which
runs into the _Tolla_. The mountains on both sides of us were well
wooded, chiefly with fir with yellow feathery leaves, and small
birch. The fir grows to no great size, probably because it is in too
great demand for sale in China. Several wood-cutting stations were
observed in this valley of the Kul, where the timber is collected
and the ox-carts loaded, of which we met so many in the desert.
With the woods, several new birds appear, conspicuous among which
are magpies, jackdaws, and pigeons.
The _Yak_, or "long-haired ox," or "grunting ox" (_Poëphagus
grunniens_), also now appear in considerable numbers. They are
smaller than the average Mongol ox, but seem to be very strong
and hardy. They are used solely for draught purposes. It has been
supposed that these animals are peculiar to Thibet, but they appear
to be also indigenous in Mongolia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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