The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
There are no shops in the Kuren, that being contrary to the Mongol
nature. All things necessary for desert life are to be purchased for
bricks of tea in a large open space where a great bazaar is held
under booths, principally by Mongol women. There you may purchase
horses, cattle, tents, leather harness, saddles, beef, mutton, caps
for lamas or black men, female ornaments, felt,--in short everything
within the scope of Mongol imagination. Our small purchases were
effected very satisfactorily--no attempt was made to impose on
us because we were strangers, and we had reason to congratulate
ourselves that we were not at the mercy of Chinese. In nothing is
the contrast between Mongols and Chinese more marked than in the
common honesty of shopkeepers or hawkers. It may indeed be said
with truth that mercantile honesty allows a man to get as much as
he can for his goods, but it is very doubtful whether such a maxim
can properly be stretched so as to justify a shopkeeper in taking a
customer at a disadvantage.
The nucleus of the Mongol settlement at Urga is the Great Lamasery
of the Guison-tamba or Lama-king of the Mongols. In this monastery,
and in the minor ones round it, it has been said that 30,000 lamas
reside, which estimate, however, must be received with caution. The
two great lamaseries of Dobodorsha and Daichenalon are built in an
indentation of the mountains that form the northern valley which
opens into the valley of the Tolla at Urga. As our route from Urga
lay on the slope of the opposite side of the valley, and our time
was exhausted, we had not the chance of visiting these temples.
The buildings are of vast extent, as plain almost as if they were
barracks; but what ornamentation there is about them is quiet and
in good taste. They differ considerably from the Chinese style of
architecture, and are no doubt Thibetan. An inscription in the
Thibetan language has been placed on the slope of the hill above the
monasteries. The characters are formed by means of white stones, and
the size of them is such as to render the writing perfectly legible
at the distance of a mile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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