The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
Having done our business at the Kuren, we started rather late in
the afternoon in pursuit of the camels. The route lay about north
through a valley. It was bad travelling, owing to the rough nature
of the ground. It is naturally soft and boggy, and the melted snow
in the low ground had greatly aggravated the evil. When past the
great monasteries, we got on higher ground on the slope of the
hills, but this was, if possible, more slippery than the low road,
for the melting snow above kept up a continuous supply of moisture
which made the road very difficult even for horses. We soon came
upon the traces of camels, which we had no difficulty in identifying
by the side-slips down the hill made by their broad splay feet. This
is always dangerous work for camels, and we had some apprehension
of accidents from "splitting," or dislocating the hip joints. We
were in consequence not ill-pleased to come upon the caravan a
little after sunset, encamped in a narrow ravine looking west, and
at the foot of a steep pass. Several of the camels had fallen,
but fortunately none were injured. It was a fine moonlight night,
and we tried to get our people to proceed on the journey; but the
camels could not draw the carts over the pass, steep as it was, and
with such slippery roads. Bullocks had been sent for, and they were
expected every hour, of course, but it might have been evident to us
that they had no intention of coming before morning. Anyhow we would
not be the occasion of delay, and therefore slept in our carts ready
for a move at any moment. At daylight on the 23rd of September the
bullocks came, two for each cart, accompanied by a young woman and
a boy, who proceeded to harness them in a very slow and deliberate
manner. The beasts did their work, but with difficulty, owing to
the broken character of the road. On the top of the pass our lama
paid his respects to an obon, by throwing a large piece of wood on
it, and the bullocks took the carts safely down the other side of
the pass, which was quite as steep as the ascent. We then proceeded
with the camels through valleys and undulations, among fine mountain
scenery, avoiding the main road, and striking off through various
bye-paths, all apparently well known to our conductors. At 3 p.m.
we halted off Narim valley to dine, intending to take advantage of
the moonlight to resume our night travelling. But as bad luck would
have it a snowstorm came on, and we had to remain where we were till
morning. All hopes of mending our pace from Urga to Kiachta now
vanished. We had already lost two good nights out of the four, or
at most five days which is considered ample time for the journey;
and if the stormy weather were to continue, which it looked very
like doing, we might be the whole winter on the road. The beasts
had little to eat but snow all night. In the morning the ground was
white, but the storm was over. Our old enemy the wind began early
in the day to stir the twigs of the trees, and though he came in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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