The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The Russians generally have a lurking consciousness that they are
but half civilised, and they are quite aware that they are so
esteemed by the rest of Europe. Hence they are at unusual pains
to maintain punctiliously the external forms of civilised life,
mistaking the husk for the kernel. The tailors and milliners of
Kiachta are as particular, and their customers perhaps more so,
about getting the latest Parisian fashions, as their contemporaries
in the most fashionable towns in Europe or even America. A morning
visit in a shooting-coat to a merchant in Kiachta would grievously
shock his sense of propriety, and if such an outlandish garb were to
meet the ultra-refined eyes of his wife, the probable consequences
to her delicate system are too serious to contemplate, albeit she
is "fat, fair, and forty," and will challenge you in champagne on
a proper occasion till all is blue. I had the misfortune to be the
innocent cause of an alarming attack to a gentleman, who was civil
enough to call at an unexpectedly early hour in the morning, by
appearing before him in slippers and a Chinese sleeping-dress.
The apparition paralysed him for two minutes, nor did he entirely
recover his equanimity during the interview. It is this mistaken
notion of what constitutes civilisation that induces the well-to-do
Russian to wear expensive furs, simply because they are expensive,
and to drink English bottled porter, not because he likes it, but
because it costs twelve shillings a bottle.
In the streets and in the bazaar (Gostinnaidvor) a strange mixture
of races is seen. The hairy, greasy, drunk-when-he-can Russian
moujik; the small-eyed cunning Russian shop-keeper; a sprinkling
of fine, dirty, rough-looking Bouriats, a Tartar tribe subject to
Russia; a few Mongols who have business,--for their authorities,
instigated by the Chinese government, are jealously watchful of
their crossing the frontier,--and a few astute Chinese, the most
business-like of the whole crowd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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