The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The first station we arrived at was Ust Kiachtinské, which is
a fair-sized village of small wooden houses, with a very neat
little church. We were prepared for all the horrors of a Siberian
post-station, but found instead a new station-house, well kept and
scrubbed inside, warm and clean. It is twenty-three and a-half
versts, or nearly sixteen miles, from Troitskosarfsk. Our doubts and
fears regarding our ability to deal with Russians, of whose language
we were ignorant, awed us into great circumspection at this, the
first point where we were left to our unaided resources. Our first
anxiety was to maintain our prestige among the Russians, for,
that failing, we should have been helpless indeed. The only sure
way of saving our name under the circumstances was to decline all
discussion, and as far as possible hold our tongues. This succeeded
very well at Ust Kiachtinské--four horses were put to our tarantass,
and no extra fare asked. The post had left that day, and the poor
jades allotted to us had already performed one stage over very heavy
roads, and were in no condition to drag our unwieldy equipage. Our
Bouriat yemschik had not gone very far over the soft sand before he
discovered this, and after exhausting all his persuasion to no good
purpose, he sent a message to the station by a chance Russian whom
we met on the road. In answer to this a fifth horse was sent from
the post-house. The yemschik resumed his efforts to proceed, and by
dint of yelling, carressing, and whipping, we got along a few miles
further. A nasty steep hill lay before us, and arrested our progress
finally for the night. When the yemschik had bawled himself hoarse,
and had goaded his horses to despair, he entreated us, first in
Russian, and then in Mongol, to get out and unload the carriage. It
was a cold dark night, and we were warmly wedged into the carriage
in a way that if we got out we could never have readjusted our beds
in the dark. Finding us deaf to remonstrance, our poor yemschik took
the horses out and let them graze--made a fire for himself of the
end of a fallen tree, and waited patiently for morning.
When daylight came we found ourselves in a thick wood, half way up
the hill. An hour and a half was spent in unloading and getting
the vehicle over the hill. After which we proceeded slowly to the
station Piravolofské, which we reached at 8 o'clock. On the road we
passed several villages, with some cultivated enclosures farmed by
Russians, who also keep a good many cattle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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