The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
At 3 p.m. we arrived at Poloviné station, simultaneously with
a number of other travellers from various quarters. The long
interruption of travelling from the flooding of the country, had
accumulated a great many on the west of Baikal lake, and now they
crowded on all at once. Amongst our fellow-travellers were several
government officers, and two loquacious Poles from Irkutsk. The
station could not furnish horses for half of the number, and as we
had all arrived together, it was a question who should get them.
We required seven for our two carriages in the then state of the
roads, and it was no small satisfaction to us to find that the
postmaster assigned to us the precedence. The government officers
made no remark, but simply ordered the samovar to make tea. The
Russian travellers also took it very quietly. But the two Poles were
not so easily appeased. We could glean a few words from the volleys
of abuse with which they indulged themselves, the gist of which
was anathemas on the Russian government, the postal system, and
things in general, winding up with a threat to set up a "republic"
in Siberia. Leaving our exasperated friends to digest the venom of
their spleen, we rattled away over good roads along the left bank of
the Selenga, till we arrived at dusk at the post station of Ilyensk,
six versts short of the town of that name. The postmaster here was
an old sergeant who kept house with his aged wife. She seemed to
be a good sort of woman, for the house was in capital order, the
wooden floor clean scrubbed, and the walls beautifully white. Tables
and chairs were in the like good trim, as were also the pots and
pans and crockery. The sergeant received us with open arms, and
was obsequiously civil. It is probable that the yemschiks who had
conducted us from Poloviné had passed the word to him of our being
distinguished personages, whom all good postmasters delighted to
honour. When the little man had acquitted himself of his bowing and
scraping, he began to expatiate on the coldness of the night and
the badness of the road that lay before us. The end of it was that
he pressed us, with his most winning grimaces, to make ourselves
comfortable under his roof for the night, and proceed at daylight
next morning towards the Baikal. We were but too willing to listen
to the voice of the charmer, for experience had taught us that night
travelling in Siberia is no great luxury. Having therefore satisfied
ourselves that we should be in good time to catch the steamer on the
Baikal, which makes two trips a week, we resigned ourselves with a
good conscience to the kind solicitations of our host. When supper
was over and bedtime came, visions of Russian vermin began to haunt
us, and seriously disturbed our prospects of rest. The most careful
scrutiny of the apartment, however, led to no discoveries of a
disagreeable nature, beyond the shoals of small cockroaches which
the heat of the room brought out in high condition. These animals
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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