The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The ponies are always in prime condition for work. Little or no
attention is paid to them in the stable or out of it, but they have
always as much corn as they can eat, and they are notoriously good
feeders. They are capable of a great amount of continuous hard work.
On an average every one of them travels two stages a day, both ways,
for they always return to their own station. That is equal to about
forty miles with a loaded carriage, and the same distance back, with
an empty one, on the same day. When the roads are tolerable they
go at a good speed. We have travelled eighteen miles at a stretch
within an hour and a half. The roads seldom admit of this rate of
travelling, however, being generally, saving the bridges and the
original cutting through the woods, left pretty much to nature.
Along the whole length of the post-road the distances from station
to station are marked at every verst by wooden poles, painted black
and white; and at each station a high post indicates the distances
from the chief towns. A feeling of depression always came over me on
spelling out the interesting word St. Petersburg, and finding it was
more than 6000 versts or 4000 miles off. It was a tedious business
to reduce such an imposing figure as that. After Irkutsk we had got
it under the 6000. When wearied out with rough travelling, the few
versts to the next halt were painful enough, and on such occasions
the 5000 odd were really appalling.
We never stopped by day or night, unless compelled by force of
circumstances. Our meals were consequently uncertain and irregular,
both as to time, quantity, and quality. At most of the stations
shtchee and beef could be had about mid-day, though unless it was
ready we did not wait for it, but pushed on, trusting to what
we might pick up in a chance way, and having our small stock of
preserved meat to fall back upon, should everything else fail.
Twice a day we drank tea. The Russians lose a great deal of time
in tea-drinking at the post-stations. Give them plenty of tea,
and they care little for food. Indeed they encourage the habit
partly to blunt the appetite. It suits their constitutions, but it
certainly did not answer with us, to be jolted and tumbled about
on bad roads with a stomach full of fluid. Besides the loss of
time was an object to us, but of little account apparently to the
Russians. A sufficiency of solid food can be disposed of in a very
few minutes, not so boiling tea, and I have constantly seen Russians
slowly sipping quarts of the decoction long after their horses were
ready for the road. In a very cold night the hot tea is no doubt
acceptable, but one tumbler of hot grog is worth a gallon of tea,
and occupies less time and less room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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