The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
It was questionable whether we could cross the Yenisei in the face
of the wind, which blew in strong gusts from the north-west, but
we managed to get our establishments into a boat, rather small for
the load she had, but quite large enough for the power available to
propel her. She was headed straight across the stream, pulled by
four men in the bow, and steered by the usual rudely made oar over
the stern. They made very little way with her, and when we had
reached the right bank of the river, we had dropped about a mile
down stream. A horse was ready on the other side to tow the boat up
to the proper landing-place. A rope was passed ashore, but before
it was properly secured to the horse, the end slipped, a gust of
wind caught the boat, and she was blown from the shore. This was
too good an opportunity for jabbering and gesticulation to be lost
on our lusty crew, and accordingly to this luxury they abandoned
themselves, while the unfortunate boat, bearing us, the unfortunate
passengers, was being blown out to the middle of the stream by the
wind, and at the same time gliding swiftly down the river. When the
crew had recovered themselves a little, they hesitated about which
shore they ought to make for; and at last concluded it would be best
to go back again to the left bank, which we reached at a point three
miles below our original starting-place. The men landed, and went
to the town to fetch horses to tow the boat up again. We walked to
the town also to seek some shelter from the biting wind, and wait
the arrival of the boat. She got up at noon, and we made a fresh
start to cross, which was successfully accomplished the second time.
A used-up team of horses awaited us, and we travelled slowly to
Krasnoyarsk.
Amid a great deal of grass and waste land, the country round
Krasnoyarsk is well cultivated, but very bare. The town is situated
on a raised plateau in a large valley. Like other Siberian towns
its streets are wide, straight, and clean, with dull-looking wooden
houses, and handsome churches. There is something incongruous in
this combination. The churches are undoubtedly highly ornamental to
the town--it would be poor indeed without them--but the contrast
between their snow-white walls and spires, and the earth-colour of
the houses, is too great. They seem to have no connection with each
other.
Krasnoyarsk, though the government town of Yeniseisk, is
comparatively a small place, its population being something under
10,000. As an exception to the general rule, its name is not derived
from a river, but means "red cliff."
The station-master at Krasnoyarsk combines with his official duties
the business of hotel-keeper, an arrangement admirably convenient
for travellers. The station hotel is a very good one from a Siberian
point of view, and we were induced to shake down in it for the night
from a variety of reasons, chiefly because we were very tired, and
it was snowing heavily.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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