The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
We now entered the government of Tomsk, a fact of which the state
of the roads would have been sufficient evidence. All through the
government of Yenisei, a distance by our route of 350 miles, the
roads are well kept up, with side drains and cross drains to keep
them dry; but in Tomsk government the roads were far worse than
nature made them, for traffic had ruined them and made them all but
impassable. During the wet weather of early autumn they had been a
mass of soft mud, which was cut up by wheels and horses' feet to a
fearful extent. The frost caught them in that condition, and the
result can be more easily imagined than described. The main road
had been in fact abandoned, until enough snow should fall to fill
up the inequalities; and in the meantime by-roads had to be struck
out through the forest, that being the only practicable means of
travelling at all. It is considered that between the autumn and the
snow there are "no roads," and no Russian travels at that season
unless under the most urgent circumstances. In the post regulations
it is laid down that travellers can demand to be driven at the
rate of ten versts per hour in summer, eight in autumn, and twelve
in winter, from December to March. These rates are, in practice,
greatly increased in summer and winter, but, in the month of
October, it is hard work to average even the government speed. The
state of the road beyond Achinsk had necessitated the subdivision of
the stages, by erecting temporary intermediate stations. The whole
of the arrangements were in confusion; so much so that after an
early breakfast in Achinsk, we found no opportunity of dining till
near midnight.
The cold continued very severe. Our freezing breath kept our faces
in a mass of ice, large icicles formed on the horses' muzzles, and
they were white all over with hoar frost, formed by the perspiration
freezing on their hair. Our bread, and everything we had, was frozen
through.
As we toiled on, painfully and slowly, on the 28th of October we
met travellers who assured us of the impossibility of crossing the
Kiya river at Mariinsk. We had learned, however, rather to take
courage from this kind of Job's comfort with which we were so often
entertained on the road; and we did not hesitate to advance to the
river, which we reached at seven in the evening. An hour sufficed to
persuade the ferrymen to tempt the crossing, and another hour saw
us over the water and in the town of Mariinsk. We were fain to rest
our aching bones a little, and finding a very civil but garrulous
postmaster, a Pole, we dined comfortably at the station, and started
again at midnight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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