The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
At Hwai-lai-hien, a good-sized walled town, we halted for the
night. Outside the city is a very large stone bridge, evidently
of the same period as those at Sha-ho. Five gothic-shaped arches
are still standing, and another is detached at a distance of some
200 feet, the intermediate part of the bridge having no doubt been
destroyed. There is no water now in the river, but the bed is still
well marked, and the old embankments remain, about 500 or 600 yards
apart. The old bed of the river is in a high state of cultivation
now.
I find the following notice of this bridge and this river in Bell's
Travels. He does not, indeed, give the name of the town, but,
tracing up his march from stage to stage, between the Great Wall
and Peking, it is evident that Hwai-lai is the station referred to.
He says: "About noon, next day, we came to a large, populous, and
well-built city, with broad streets, as straight as a line. Near
this place runs a fine river, which appears navigable, having across
it a noble stone bridge, of several arches, and paved with large
square stones."
Bell also makes frequent allusion to an earthquake, which did great
damage to this part of the country in July, 1719. Many towns and
villages were half destroyed, and some were wholly laid in ruins,
and "vast numbers of people" were engulfed. "I must confess,"
says Bell, "it was a dismal scene to see everywhere such heaps
of rubbish." The district being subject to earthquakes, makes it
probable that the fine bridge has been destroyed by that agency. But
what has become of the fine navigable river that existed in 1720,
and has now disappeared? Has it also been upset by an earthquake?
The river was probably the Kwei-ho, which now runs in another
direction, but some of the gentlemen of Peking or Tientsin, who
have explored the country, will no doubt elucidate this interesting
question.
On the 19th we made an early start, and went at a very steady pace
towards the northern chain of mountains. On approaching them we
turned slightly to the left, and skirted the base of the hills. We
met a good deal of traffic on the road here, all goods being carried
on the backs of mules and donkeys. Coal formed a conspicuous object,
on its way to Peking, where it is used to a considerable extent.
Immense flocks of sheep are continually passing in the direction of
Peking, and we also met a good many herds of horses bound the same
way. Our mid-day halt was at Shacheng, a walled town.
All over this country are the ruins of old forts; and a line of
square towers, with a good many blanks, runs nearly in the direction
of the road. If these forts could speak they could tell a tale of
many a hard-fought battle before and after the Mongol conquest of
China.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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