The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
annoyance, the impossibility of keeping the blowing sand out of our
food was an evil hard to bear patiently. Everything, even the inside
of our boxes, was filled with sand. Every means was tried in vain to
prevent it from blowing under our tent. We walked about most of the
day and tried to shoot, but the guns were nearly blown out of our
hands, and that resource for the destitute had to be abandoned in
despair.
About 4 in the afternoon we started again, wind still blowing a
gale. The road became very rough, which was an additional reason for
a restless night. We had many stoppages besides, and much shouting
all through the night, which seriously disturbed our fitful naps,
and in the morning it was painfully evident that our poor camels
were breaking down. One of them had several times refused to go
on, and had eventually lain down with his load, and resisted all
persuasion to rise. He had to be unloaded and the extra weight
distributed among the stronger ones, at the risk of breaking them
down also. The truth is the camels were not in condition when we
started. We were too early for them. The practice of the Mongols is
to work their camels hard from the autumn to the spring. Before the
summer comes everything is taken out of them; their humps get empty
and lie flat on their backs; their feet get out of order, and they
have mostly bad sore backs. They are then taken off the road and
turned out to grass. About this time they shed their long hair and
become naked, and all through the hot weather the Mongol camel is
the most miserable object that can be imagined. In the early autumn
they have recruited their strength, their humps are firm and stand
erect, their backs are healed, and they begin the campaign fresh and
strong.
Our progress during the night was very slow, and towards morning
the road became sandy--in some places very heavy. The cart-camels
now suffered most, sweating and struggling with their work in a way
that was far from reassuring to us who had the greater part of the
journey still before us.
The whitened bones of camels are scattered all over the desert,
but in this place they were more numerous than ever. I believe the
camels always die on the road. They are worked till they drop, and
when one of a caravan fairly breaks down, there is no alternative
but to leave it to die on the sand.
Yourts are few and far between, and few cattle are to be seen;
there is barely grass enough to support sheep and camels. We pushed
on till 11 o'clock, and encamped at Mingan, where there were no
yourts actually in sight, but several within a few miles. There
was really little or nothing to eat, and our trusty steeds were
palpably suffering from their long stages and short commons. Serious
misgivings crossed our minds as to the probability of our ponies
carrying us much further, and we were concerned for them as well as
for ourselves, for they had done our work well so far, and we felt
kindly to them as the patient companions of our journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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