The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
Our Mongols having slept off their first meal and drunk their tea,
put the pot on the fire again, and cooked the remainder of the goat,
on which they had another heavy blow-out late in the afternoon.
The rapacity and capacity of a Mongol stomach is like that of a
wild beast. They are brought up to eat when they can, and fast when
they must, and their digestion is never deranged by either of these
conditions. They very much resemble their own camels in those useful
qualities so necessary to the inhabitants of a desert. Our Mongols
had really eaten nothing since leaving Chan-kia-kow. They had fasted
for seven days at least, and gone almost entirely without sleep all
that time, and yet suffered nothing from the fatigue they must have
endured. They had certainly some millet seed and some Chinese dough,
a little of which they put into their tea as they drank it, but of
actual food they had none. They had now laid in a supply which would
last them another week. They seldom carry meat with them, finding it
more convenient to take it in their stomachs.
Lest it be thought that we also adopted the Mongol way of living, I
must explain that we had a very complete set of cooking utensils,
plates, knives and forks, and every other accessory to civilised
feeding. We certainly had to a great extent to educate ourselves to
live on one meal a day, but that was but a distant approach to the
Mongol habit of eating but once a week.
We made a long day of it on the steppe Gunshandak, hoping every hour
that the Kitat would return. The country was so desert that there
was no population, and only two yourts were near us. Our encampment
was some distance off the track, and we had consequently no visits
from travellers, so we spent a very quiet day. In the afternoon the
camels were brought in, and Tellig and the lama examined them all
narrowly. Their condition was really becoming serious, for not only
were they tired and worn out, but their backs were getting very
bad. They are very subject to this. Nearly all of them had large
deep holes in their backs, which penetrated almost through the
flesh between the ribs. Maggots breed very fast in these wounds,
and every few days the Mongols probe deep into the wound with a bit
of stick, and scoop the vermin out. The animals complain a little
during this operation, but on the whole they bear their ills with
marvellous patience. While the camels are grazing, the crows sit on
their backs and feed on the worms. It did seem cruel to put heavy
loads on such suffering creatures, but what else could be done?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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