The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The grass was still copiously sprinkled with onions. As we advanced
we crossed some marshy ground with a good deal of water, enough to
make it necessary to pick the way judiciously, for the camel hates
water or slippery mud. Their broad soft feet don't sink into the mud
sufficiently to enable them to get a good foot-hold like a horse,
and their long weedy legs are so loosely knit together, that they
run a great risk of splitting up when their feet slip. A caravan
of seventeen camels, that had accompanied us since morning, took a
wrong road across the marshes and stuck, the camels being unable
to proceed. Our lama took a round-about road, for which we abused
him at the time; but when he saw the other caravan brought up all
standing on the short cut, he merely pointed it out to us with a
triumphant chuckle, and quietly asked, "Who knows the road?"
A 60-camel caravan was passed encamped near the marsh. It was from
Urga, and probably from Kiachta, loaded with merchandise for China,
and for account of Chinese. Two celestials were in charge of the
goods, jolly roystering fellows, with whom we stopped awhile and
held such conversation as to the road, the state of the pastures,
time occupied, &c., as will usually occur to travellers in such
regions. It was curious to notice how untruthful these travellers'
stories generally were. They seemed to say whatever came uppermost
in their minds, as a man of a happy disposition will often say,
"It is a fine day," when it is raining cats and dogs. But yet if
you are to believe _nothing_ of what you hear on the road, you
will deprive yourself of a great deal of information which might
be valuable; and if you believe _all_, you will keep yourself and
your people constantly in hot water. It is difficult to steer a safe
course between too much credulity on the one hand, and too little
faith on the other.
We halted again at 2 o'clock at _Taryagi_, a region unpeopled; but
we were near a shallow lagoon, with thick chalk-coloured water.
It was most unpalatable, but the Mongols seemed to like it. It is
easier for them to draw their water from a pool than to fetch it
from a distant well; and to cover their indolence, they invariably
assure you that the wells are salt. You are of course obliged to
accept their explanations, for if they were to assert that there
were no wells at all, you would not be a bit the wiser. Although the
pastures were pretty fair at Taryagi, our camels were not allowed to
graze, the reason being, that in their condition, they would blow
themselves out in a couple of hours to such an extent, that they
would not be fit to work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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