The Somerset CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Somerset Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Somerset (England) -- Description and travel
Yet, with all these adjuncts of an up-to-date civilisation, Williton
does not enjoy the distinction of being a real, original, independent
parish. It stands in the parish of St. Decuman’s, a church yonder on the
hillside, over a mile away, near Watchet: the peculiar humour of the
thing being that St. Decuman’s, save for a few rustic cottages close by,
stands lonely, while Watchet and Williton are populous places. Thus we
observe here the engaging paradox, outraging all the problems of Euclid,
of the larger being contained in the smaller. At the same time, it must
be allowed that the “chapel-of-ease” at Williton, however inferior
ecclesiastically and architecturally to St. Decuman’s, is at any rate of
a respectable antiquity. It originated in a chantry chapel founded by
Robert FitzUrse, brother of that Reginald who bore his share in the
murder of Thomas à Becket. In a district such as this, where churchyard
and wayside crosses, more or less dilapidated, are common-places, it
seems hardly worth while to note that the base of an ancient cross
stands at the east end of Williton church, or that fragments of two
others stand in front of that old white-faced coaching inn, the
“Egremont Hotel,” one of them made to support a gaslamp which itself has
been put out of action by effluxion of time.
St. Decuman’s, the parish church of Watchet, stands fully half a mile
away from the little town, inland, within sight of Williton, on a
conspicuous knoll. St. Decuman, to whom the church is dedicated, was one
of those wonderful West Country saints for whom, as for Napoleon, the
word “impossible” did not exist. He flourished at the close of the
seventh century and the opening of the eighth, and came originally from
South Wales, as a missionary to the heathen of Somerset. Crossing the
sea on a hurdle, or on his cloak, according to the conflicting accounts
given, he established a hermit’s cell on this spot and subsisted chiefly
on berries and the milk of a cow which came from nowhere in particular,
especially for the purpose of sustaining the holy man. The heathen,
however, resented the hermit’s presence, and seized and beheaded him
here, fondly imagining they had thus given him his _quietus_. But they
little knew the virile qualities of this hardy race of missioners who
came from across Channel and wrought marvels all along these coasts of
Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall. St. Decuman was beheaded, but that was by
no means the end of him. He took up his head, washed it in a spring that
gushed forth upon the spot (for he was a cleanly person for a hermit),
and placed it again on his shoulders: probably remarking, in the manner
of modern conjurors, “That’s how it’s done!” But of this we have no
record. To convert the ungodly after this exhibition of his powers was
easy. There would appear to have been no reason why so remarkable a man
as this should ever have died, but he passed away at last, in A.D. 706.
A grim little stone figure of him occupies a niche in the tower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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