The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
The moon was full that night, and the lake and the mountains formed
a glorious scene, which left in the mind a longing to behold it
again. Lake Tsana has that haunting, attractive power which some
places possess, and which prompts one to return to them in spite of
all that commonsense says about obstacles and discomfort.
On February 13 we made an early start upon our return journey to the
Soudan, and reached the top of the plateau at half-past ten. We saw
nothing, after all, of Hyli’s men; I did not hear why they failed
to join us. As we now retraced our steps over the same ground that we
had traversed on the way to the lake, I shall not give any detailed
account of our progress. In one day’s journey we covered a distance
which had given us an arduous two days’ climb on the upward march,
and we came again into the region of the Soudanese heat. The sequence
of vegetation according to altitude was strikingly apparent during
the descent. Throughout the first half of it we were in the cactus
country, then in the bamboo zone, and, finally, among the mimosas and
desert scrub. The heat proved trying to man and beast. We Europeans
felt fagged and dull; I had three fever patients among our followers
in the evening; and the donkeys straggled into camp jaded and spent.
An incident of the journey will show the nature of the road. A little
while after we had passed the long and narrow gorge which has already
been described, I caught sight of my valise and some other luggage
stacked on a bank. Upon asking why it was there, I found that the
donkey which had carried the load had slipped from the path and had
fallen and rolled about ninety or a hundred feet. The beast seemed
none the worse for the adventure, and the boys were bringing up the
baggage piecemeal from the ledge which had stopped the donkey. I
have no doubt that its burden saved it; a rider might have performed
the same service if his remains had kept in place. A mirror and a
candle-globe which “accomplished the descent” were not injured.
In spite of the steepness and roughness of the path—the mountains
are genuine _sierras_ (saws)—I believe that no great trouble and
expense would be needed to make this approach to Western Abyssinia
easy and safe, but it would be impossible for camels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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