The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
On March 6 we quitted Aradeeb. The old sheikh came to our camp to
see us start, and brought us hot coffee in which we ceremonially
drank “peace to the village.” Throughout our journey on this
day we followed the course of the river, constantly crossing gorges
and khors. We reached Sofi at midday. This is the large village near
which Sir Samuel Baker dwelt for five months in 1861. He has given
a very full and most interesting account of the surrounding district
in “The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia.” There are rest-huts built
of straw at Sofi, and we were glad to take refuge in them, though the
temperature within when we arrived was 107° F. However, we were able
to remove our helmets, and this we could not do in our tents in the
daytime as the sun penetrated the canvas. At night the temperature was
98° F., and a hot wind was blowing strongly. Towards evening I had
taken my rod to a pool in the river, but this unpleasant breeze had
by that time ruffled the surface smartly, and I got no sport. I think
the fish lie quietly in shelter during these storms and do not feed.
Next morning we left Sofi, passed through the village of Tomat,
and about midday pitched our camp five miles beyond this place
opposite to the “mugra,” that is the junction of the Settite
and Atbara rivers. The two streams at the point of meeting have a
course about a quarter of a mile broad. The bed of the Atbara is
flat and there is much shingle in it. The sandstone formation has
come to an end, and the rocks which crop up here and there are of a
granitic character. Very little water was flowing in either river,
but a larger stream trickled in the Settite than in the other. We
did not stir far from camp in the afternoon, but shot sand-grouse
as they came to drink in the pools.
During the day we saw tracks of lions, hyenas, and monkeys—grivets
and baboons. The soil and the vegetation by the river were such as
we had seen on the previous marches. A lion came into the camp during
the night. We were sleeping in the open and heard him sniffing round
our beds. I sang out to Dupuis, and asked him what was making the
noise. He struck a light, and the beast skulked off into the bush. My
two friends snatched up their rifles and hurried off to see if he
meant to attack the camels. That, no doubt, had been his errand,
for he left us alone, though I saw his tracks within a yard of my bed
next morning. The camels, as usual, were gathered in circles near the
men’s fires. They were hobbled, and I heard them stamping quickly
on the ground in their fright, making a strange pattering noise. I
believe they only show fear in this way when they smell a lion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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