The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
The next morning, January 26, I was better, but felt shaky when I
got on my mule and started with my companions. At a short distance
from the camp we left the animals in a hollow and climbed a steep
hill about five hundred feet high. It was covered with tall grass
and the soil was stony, so that I was soon out of breath. But when
we reached the summit a lovely scene lay in front of us. The Blue
Nile, winding away from its outlet in the lake, was bright in the
sunshine. The green banks on either side were delightful to the eyes,
and here and there in the stream were little islands, vivid in colour,
where the papyrus grew to a height of twelve or fourteen feet. There
were many dark dots in the water—heads of hippopotami, which swarm
in these upper reaches of the Blue Nile. Mountains rise above the
river-valley on both sides, and the stream curves among the spurs at
their base, till it is lost to sight. The view from the high land
is far-reaching, and the clearness of the air makes even distant
outlines very distinct. I can scarcely imagine a scene at once so
charming, tranquil, and impressive as this prospect of lake, river,
and mountains. It is impossible to convey in words the effect of
the simple, strong colouring—the blue lake, the flashing stream,
the verdurous islands and swamps, the cloudless, lustrous sky, the
chromes and grays and purplish shadows among the ridges that sweep
upward and recede from the valley in splendid lines. And upon the
peace of this landscape at least, the personally conducted tripper
will not intrude just yet.
I noticed several cataracts, but none of any great extent. The water
in these rapids was rushing over and between rocks, and they must be
ugly places when the lake rises. In other parts the river was smooth
and still. In one pool we counted eighteen hippos taking the air,
just their snouts being out of water.
Almost at once we set to work and piled up a heap of stones, and fixed
in the centre of it a long pole as a landmark. This was a straight,
thin branch which we cut from a tree near at hand. After this we
set up three more “cairns” on selected spots, and then descended
to the low ground, where the mules were waiting. I remained in the
valley, for exertion soon tires one out after the fever. My friends
climbed other hills and erected more landmarks before returning to
lunch. In the meanwhile I tried my luck at angling in the river,
but caught nothing, and soon gave up the attempt, and lounged under
a palm-tree, reading.
My companions started on their mules after lunch to continue
their survey, and I went back to camp and was glad to be idle. The
day’s work was ended before evening, and I believe we were the
first Britishers who had five-o’clock tea beside the head waters
of the Blue Nile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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