England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
Now, as if for the sake of the evening bells and the gleaners, the
rain withholds itself, and over the drenching stubble the women and
children, in black and grey and dirty white, crawl, doubled up,
careless of the bells and of the soft moist gold of the sun that
envelops them, as of the rain and wind that after a little while cover
up the gold upon the field and the green and rose of the sky.
And so to the inn. Why do not inns have a regular tariff for the
poorish man without a motor-car? Let inn-keepers bleed the rich, by all
means, but why should they charge me one shilling and ninepence for a
cod steak or a chop or the uneatable cold roast beef of new England,
and then charge the same sum for the best part of a duckling and
cheese and a pint of ale? I once asked the most enterprising publisher
in London whether he would print a book that should tell the sober
truth about some of our English inns, and he said that he dared not
do anything so horrible. For fear of ruining my publisher I will not
mention names, but simply say that at nine inns out of ten the charges
are incalculable and excessive unless the traveller makes a point of
asking beforehand what they are going to be, a course that provokes
discomfort in his relation to the host outweighing what is saved. The
tea room, on the other hand, is inexpensive. It lies behind a shop and
there is a slaughter-house adjacent--even now the butcher can be heard
parting the warm hide from the flesh. Inside, the room is green and the
little light and the rain also come sickly through windows of stained
glass and fall upon a piano, a bicycle, an embroidered deck chair,
vases of dead grass on a marble-topped table, a screen pasted over with
scraps from the newspapers, and, upon the walls, a calendar from the
butcher depicting a well-dressed love scene, a text or two, pictures of
well-dressed children and their animals, and upon the floor, oilcloth
odorous and wet. Here, as at the inns, the adornments are dictated by
a taste begotten by the union of peasant taste and town taste, and are
entirely pretentious and unrelated to the needs of the host or of the
guests.
CHAPTER XIV
AN OLD HOUSE AND A BOOK--WILTSHIRE
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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