The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
“Why, ’tes like this yur, ye see, Salcombe don’ want no railway; we’m
martel glad, I zhuree, ’ur didden coom no furder’n Kingsbridge, an’
them as wants et now’d be main zorry et ever comed, ef’t du coom. Some
on ’em wrote their names down on what they carled a petition for et.
That old feller nex’ door to me was one on ’em. ‘Aw, yo’ ole fule,’ I
ses, friendly like, ‘what av’ee dued now; baintee zatisfied tu be left
peaceable? Why, yo’ must be maazed; vair zillee, fer zure. Scralee out
yer name to-rights,’ ses I; ‘us-uns, don’ wan’ no railways yur.’”
[Illustration: AN OLD COTTAGE, SALCOMBE.]
“And the railway has been abandoned, then?”
“Zim zo: leastways we’m niver yurd nuthin’ more on’t.”
“But why object to a railway: it would bring more people? Look how
prosperous Kingsbridge has become since the railway was opened.”
“Aw, my dear sawl, ther’s no livin’ fer poor vo’k wher’ ther’s a railway.
It doubles yer rent an’ the price of yer food, an’ all the gentry goes
away, an’ all them as cooms into the place on business, an’ usen’d
be able to git out’n it agen in a hurry, why, they’m off agen same
arternoon.”
[Illustration: SALCOMBE CASTLE.]
And that’s true enough, as Kingsbridge has discovered. Meanwhile,
Salcombe remains a place which may not inaptly be compared with a lobster
pot or a beetle-trap. It is not difficult to enter, but it _is_ difficult
to leave, unless you are prepared to hoof it, as many a commercial
traveller knows.
Touch is kept with the outer world by means of an omnibus to Kingsbridge
and by a steamer plying up and down the river; and sometimes the
Kingsbridge Packet voyages out to sea, and comes at last to a safe haven
in Plymouth Barbican after having casually taken ground on a mud-bank
or two down the river. The Kingsbridge Packet is not precisely a liner,
and is indeed a cargo-boat which does not even disdain potatoes and live
sheep.
[Illustration: SALCOMBE CHURCH.]
“Kingsbridge River” is altogether a misnomer. It is a five-mile long
inlet of the sea, with numerous subsidiary creeks winding between the
hills. The scenery is rendered comparatively desolate by the lack of
woods, and it is of a peculiar solitude. Kingsbridge town itself sits at
the head of the creek, and is a thriving little place. The villages of
Charleton, Frogmore, and South Pool stand on their respective creeks.
Salcombe is not a little proud of its literary association with Froude,
who entertained Tennyson at his residence, Woodcot, toward the close of
their respective careers, and it is a cherished article of faith that the
Poet Laureate here received the inspiration of his “Crossing the Bar.”
Froude himself sleeps in the cemetery on the hill-top, where his epitaph
may be read with interest:—
In Memory of
James Anthony Froude, M.A.,
Regius Professor of
Modern History, Oxford.
Son of the Rev. R. H. Froude,
late Archdeacon of Totnes.
Born at Dartington
April 23, 1818,
Died at Salcombe,
October 20, 1894.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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