The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
The Walk begins by burrowing through a stunted wood, that looks romantic
enough to be pixie-haunted. And, by the same token, the foxglove grows
abundantly in its shade, so the pixies must needs foregather here; for
the foxglove provides gloves for the little “folk” and has nothing at
all to do with foxes. They are the splendidest gloves you ever saw, much
superior to the best _gants de suéde_ that ever were, and neither Fownes
nor Dent and Allcroft have ever made anything like them. That is quite
certain. And if you come here at midnight and turn round three times and
say “willie-willie wiskins,” you will see—what you _will_ see. I can say
no more than that, because whoso gives away the secrets of the little
folk is lost.
[Illustration: THE PINNACLES, BOLT HEAD.]
Beyond the wood you come to very weird scenery indeed, along the
boulderesque footpath, with bracken and hoar rock intermingled, and the
blue sea below on the left and great grey spires of cliff overhead on
the right, splashed with lichens red, golden, tawny, pallid green—all
colours. Then rise in front of you the Pinnacles. You see at once, when
you are come in sight of them, that you are come by quick change from the
territory of the little folk into some Arthuresque land of the giants,
for the great fantastic pinnacles are in twisted and contorted forms that
suggest having originally been fashioned when warm and plastic by some
Titan hand.
The slaty stratification of the surrounding rocks lends itself to the
most outlandish horrent shapes of monstrous jibing faces, anvils,
halberds, battle axes, and the likeness of a perfect armoury of magic
weapons of offence, taking their most uncanny guise in the ragged mists
that almost always enwrap and cling about The Bolt.
It seems that, contrary to general belief, this headland, of which these
Pinnacles are the culminating point, is not the real Bolt Head. It is
the further point, across the intervening valley, where the explorer
finds the coastguard path die away, and himself perilously walking on the
treacherous grassy slopes, where a slip will conduct at express speed
on to some particularly sharp and cruel-looking rocks. It is like an
inferno down there, in the sense that the descent is fatally easy, and to
retrace one’s steps—or rather, flight—impossible. It is here that, warily
shirking the point, you wish you hadn’t come; that you were a goat or a
chamois, or, at the very least of it, that you had spikes in the soles of
your shoes.
But they are lovely, as well as awe-inspiring, glimpses down there, sheer
into the sea, where the cliff-walls are as black as coal and the sea now
a dark, now a light green, here and there ringing a half-submerged rock
with creamy foam. Hollow sound the surges in those cavernous depths, and
reverberant the cries of the seagulls. Such is the extremity of the real
Bolt, out yonder.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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