The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
When the south-westerly winds bring great seas raging into the bay, with
towering white combers dashing in upon the sands, the Thurlestone finds
a voice and calls with a sound of roaring, all over this countryside.
The rustics say that at such times you shall hear the bellowing of the
Thurlestone ten miles distant.
For myself, I have come to Thurlestone at a time when there are no
voices, save the cat-like screaming of the gulls and the horrible
squawking noises of the cruiser setting out to sea from Hope Cove, and
bidding a series of half-suffocated good-byes with her steam-whistles,
dreadfully like some one being very offensively sick. Noises are not
common on Thurlestone strand, and I would even say it was lonely, save
that the millions of sand-fleas inhabiting the shore forbid the thought.
I have bought a piece of Dutch cheese and some biscuits, and disregarding
the inmates of the one hideously plastered boarding-house recently
built here, take off shoes and stockings, and sitting on a convenient
rock sliding down into deep water, come into intimate touch with the
infinities, and make these notes. Two pennyworth of Dutch cheese, with
biscuits to match, a comfortable seat on a rocky ledge, your feet
dabbling in the clear water, and sunshine over all, will bring you into
close relation with the Infinite. Here I hew off in the rough a slab of
the Simple Life, and enjoy it hugely. It is, I suppose, the sunshine and
the solitude in collaboration. At any rate, it is obviously enough not
the white ale.
There are cornelians and lovely pebbles on this lonely strand, and
sea-anemones, to the eye appetisingly like fruit-jellies, on the rocks.
Alas! they are _not_ good to eat, and as fairy gold, we all know, turns
to sere leaves, so the translucent pebbles of the wet sea-shore become
the commonplace opaque stones that the next day we turn disgustedly out
of our pockets. In short, it is life in little you find reflected here,
and reduces the heady optimism of a summer noon to something like tears.
I don’t expect, or hope, every one who comes to this salt margin of Devon
will feel thus. This it is to be cursed with temperament, to be, against
your will, a snivelling sentimentalist, whom the lowing of the cattle at
eventide, the distant tinkling of the sheep-bells, or the very beauty of
day or place will suffice to reduce to a chastened melancholy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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