The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
There is nothing more pitiful in all this world of activity than the
sight of these discarded ships of our modern navy. The old wooden
men-o’-war, out-of-date long generations ago, are still things of a
worshipful nobility. Even the blackened coal-hulks and the floating
station of the Harbour Police have the remains of a majestic presence;
but the obsolete cruisers and other vessels of the present iron age
are dreadfully abject and mean. They have been in every clime, and on
many a distant station have upheld the dignity of the Empire, and so
have a claim upon our respect; but no worn-out boiler or discarded
kitchen-range, among the rubbish-heaps of a builder’s yard, looks so
utterly and unromantically sordid. For myself, I _want_ to be impressed;
I acutely wish to read romance and the pathos of neglect into these
discarded things of iron and steel, that have carried the King’s
commission over all the seas of the habitable globe and are now struck
off the effective list, even though they be not more than twenty years
old; but I find it impossible. I could as easily—nay, could with greater
ease—drop a salt tear over the old kitchener that has cooked me many a
dinner, and now lies rusting in the garden.
The ships look so small; and their sides and decks are red with
rust-stains. When quite deserted they are even more than abject, and
resemble floating scrap-heaps, but when some solitary figure of a marine
is perceived, in charge, pipe in mouth, and clad in the extraordinary
deshabille of undress that only a soldier will descend to when removed
from the eye of command, and with intimate articles of his underclothing
drying in the sun, they wear the look of sea-going slums. Figures and
statistics do not commonly impress me; you can make so much play with an
extra o or two, but here are cruisers that have cost £150,000 a-piece
which will each fetch at auction only a trifling £5,000, and for the mere
look of them, would seem to be extravagantly dear at £500; and when I
think of these things, I am very much impressed indeed.
The Hamoaze between St. Budeaux on the Devonshire, and Saltash on the
Cornish, shores, becomes the Tamar, and narrows to something a little
less than half a mile wide. It is spanned here by the famous Saltash
Bridge, built by Brunel to carry the railway across, and opened in 1859.
For eleven miles above the bridge, the Tamar is navigable at high tide by
small steamers, past Cargreen, to Calstock, and past Morwellham Quay, to
Weir Head. Beyond, where New Bridge carries the highway across, Devon and
Cornwall join hands.
[Illustration]
INDEX
Aish, 154, 184, 186, 190-92
Anstey’s Cove, 125-7
Armada, The, 235, 273-6, 290
Ash Hole, The, 168
Ashcombe, 83, 84
Aveton Gifford, 245
Avon, River, 2, 242, 245
Axe, River, 14, 15, 16, 48, 54
Axmouth, 15
Babbacombe, 50, 116, 119-25
Bantham, 242, 245
Barbican, 266, 269-73, 285
Battisborough, 253
Beer, 23, 26, 27, 28-35
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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