The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Dartmouth as a port of call for liners died hard, but the last line of
steamships, the Donald Currie service to the Cape, went, and now it is
divided between being a favourite yachting station and the home of the
new Royal Naval College, which, transferred from its picturesque and
makeshift old home aboard the _Britannia_ and _Hindostan_, now crowns the
hill and nobly dominates the whole of Dartmouth in the great range of
buildings overlooking the Dart.
The ferryman who puts us across the Dart is full of information and as
full of regrets about the _Britannia_ and _Hindostan_, the new Naval
College, and the changed conditions of seafaring life, but with a
sardonic smile he thinks the cadets will learn their business as well
ashore as they have done afloat. “Why not?” he asks. “They don’t want
no sailors nowadays. There _was_ a time when a sailor was never without
his marline-spike an’ mallet. Now they’re all bloody Dagoes and Dutchies
in the merchant sarvice, an’ engineers and stoke-hole men, with cold
chisels, ’stead of knives, in the Navy. For a sailor—when there _were_
sailors, mind you—to be without his knife, why, he might every bit as
well up’n give his cap’n a clump auver th’yed, so he might. An’ up
_there_—” he jerked so contemptuous a thumb over his shoulder that it
was almost a wonder the new flagstaff on the new central tower did not
wilt—“up _there_ them young juicers is fed up with ’lectricity ’n things
no Godfearing sailorman in _my_ time never heerd of.”
Although it is designed in the Paltry Picturesque Eclectic Renaissance or
Doll’s House, style with ornamental fripperies and fandangalums galore,
the Naval College has the noblest of aspects, seen from down the harbour,
or across the Dart, from Old Rock Ferry. Planted on the wooded summit of
Mount Boone, the long range of buildings, backed by dark trees, sets just
that crown and finish upon Dartmouth which suffices to raise the scenic
character of the place from beauty to nobility. A curious feature of it
is the clock in the central tower, which rings seafaring time ashore: so
many “bells.” At sea the twelve hours are divided into three watches of
four hours each, with a “bell” to every half-hour. Thus the “bells” rise
with the half-hours to eight, when they begin again, with the completion
of the first half-hour of the new watch. In this manner, the “bells”
agree with shoregoing chimes only twice a day: at eight o’clock, morning
and night.
[Illustration: DARTMOUTH: THE “BRITANNIA” AND “HINDOSTAN,” AND THE NEW
NAVAL COLLEGE.]
[Illustration: FOSS STREET AND ST. SAVIOUR’S.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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