The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
We spent a very charming afternoon visiting the Grande Béguinage.
Passing through the lofty gateway we were greeted by the
pleasant-faced Béguine who receives all visitors and who directed us
how to reach the buildings we were permitted to see. As at Bruges, the
cells were not shown to visitors. Altogether at St. Amand there are
fourteen "convents" and eighty houses, the former accommodating twenty
or thirty inmates and the latter two or three, with occasionally some
lady from the outer world who is taken as a lodger. Each little house
is numbered and also has a name, usually that of some saint. Arriving
at the convent we had been permitted to visit we were first conducted
down a long, clean corridor, painted a glaring white, to a parlour or
reception room, of which there appear to be several. Then, after the
Lady Superior had been notified of our presence and had come to
welcome us, we were taken to the _refter_, or dining-room. The
inventor of the kitchen cabinet could have taken points from this
curious apartment. Along the walls and between the windows are a dozen
or more cupboards, of which one belongs to each Béguine. Here she
keeps her napkins, dishes and cooking utensils, and even her bread and
provisions. A board can be pulled out near the middle, which serves as
a table. These cupboards are so constructed that no Béguine can see
into that of her neighbour, and apparently they take their meals one
at a time, as one was eating her frugal repast when we entered, and
when we passed through the room again a little later her little
private refectory was closed and another one was seated at her little
shelf or table. Adjoining this queer dining-room was a large kitchen,
with an extremely big cook stove, on which a half-dozen little pots
were simmering gently. One Béguine, we were told, has the duty of
attending to the kitchen for three weeks, then another, each taking
turns. The Béguines prepare their own meals to suit themselves, the
one in charge of the kitchen merely looking after the actual process
of cooking.
We next visited the workroom, where a group of Béguines were busily
engaged in making lace. The bright sunshine streaming through the
large windows on the silent group of workers, each clad in her sombre
garb of black and white, made a pretty picture. All seemed to be
care-free and contented, though the expression on their faces could
hardly be described as one of happiness. As in all conventual
institutions, the inmates are required to go through quite a series of
devotional exercises from morning mass to the Benediction Night
Prayers. The scene in the little chapel attached to each convent, or
in the large chapel of the entire Béguinage, when the sisters are
assembled for service is a very picturesque one and gives the visitor
an impression likely long to be remembered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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