The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
As would be expected from its great religious importance, Malines has
numerous minor churches that contain much of interest to the visitor.
The largest of these is Notre Dame au delà de la Dyle, situated across
the River Dyle from the oldest part of the city, but dating from the
fifteenth century. Here the tourist usually asks to see "The
Miraculous Draught of Fishes," by Rubens, a highly coloured triptych
that is only uncovered when one pays a franc to the attendant. As this
master produced some seventeen hundred known works it would cost a
small fortune to see them all at a franc apiece, but this one dates
from the artist's best period and is fully worth the price charged to
see it. It is vigorous in treatment, and the Fishmongers' Guild, which
purchased it from the artist in 1618 for sixteen hundred florins,
certainly got very good value for their money. The wings are painted
on both sides. This church also contains the curious Virgin with the
Broken Back. According to the popular legend her sharp leaning to the
right is due to the fact that one day, when the sacristan of the
church failed to wake up in time to ring the angelus the lady
obligingly did it for him, but wrenched her spine in the effort. Her
smug smirk of satisfaction, as if over a duty well performed, no doubt
also dates from the same incident.
Hardly less interesting is the ancient church of Notre Dame
d'Hanswyck, situated on the same side of the Dyle as the other Notre
Dame just described. A chapel was erected on the site of this church
soon after the country was converted from paganism by St. Rombaut, and
a large church was built near the end of the thirteenth century. This,
however, was pillaged by the iconoclasts in 1566, riddled by shot from
the cannon of the Prince of Orange in 1572, and finally completely
demolished eight or nine years later by the Gueux. It was not until
1663 that the present edifice was begun. It was designed by Luke
Faid'herbe, the famous sculptor of Malines and a pupil of Rubens, and
was built under his personal supervision. The church itself is a
veritable museum of the works of this master. The finest and most
famous of these are the two bas-reliefs in the dome, one showing "The
Nativity," and the other "The Saviour Falling Under the Burden of the
Cross." The pulpit, by Theodore Verhaegen, is a fine example of
Flemish wood carving. In this church the chief treasure, from the
standpoint of its priests and parishioners, is the miraculous statue
of the Virgin, which dates from 988, or earlier, according to some
authorities. It is made of wood, painted and gilded, and is life size.
Not the least miraculous feat of this interesting relic of the Middle
Ages is its escape from destruction, at the hands of the iconoclasts,
the Gueux, and the French revolutionists. At the period when the
church itself was destroyed the statue was hidden in a secret
subterranean passage for nearly a century; during the French
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