The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
Facing the Grande Place, and only a few steps from the Belfry, is the
Hotel de Ville, an unprepossessing structure externally, although the
historians say that it was once much better looking. It has, at all
events, been restored, and the statues of the Counts of Flanders that
were destroyed during the Revolution replaced by modern ones carved by
a local sculptor. After finding the concierge we were shown a small
collection of modern paintings by Belgian artists bequeathed to the
city by one of its wealthy sons. This, however, was merely _en route_,
as it were, to the great show-place of this--as of all other Flemish
hotels de ville--the Salle du Conseil. Here the _pièce de résistance_
is the great chimney-piece, carved in 1525 by unknown sculptors, who
probably were natives of the city as there were several of good renown
residing and working there at that period. The elaborate carvings with
which this masterpiece is decorated comprise three tiers. At the top
the figures represent the virtues: Faith, Humility, Charity, Chastity,
Generosity, Temperance, Patience and Vigilance. In the middle section
a series of pictures carved in stone typify the vices: Idolatry,
Pride, Avarice, Sensuality, Jealousy, Gluttony, Anger and Idleness.
The lowest tier contains reliefs that are supposed to show the
punishment for these vices, although the idea is not always quite
easy to follow. In niches projecting from the middle section are fine
statues, carved from wood, of Charles V in the centre, with Justice
and Peace on the opposite sides. At the right and left sides of the
chimney-piece are two more tiers of carvings, but of inferior interest
to those on the front. The beamed ceiling of this fine room is worthy
of at least a glance, for on the corbels supporting it are some of the
most curious carvings to be seen in Flanders, representing the
conquests of woman over man--beginning with Adam and Eve and Samson
and Delilah, and including several examples from pagan mythology.
We were next conducted down-stairs to the Salle Echevinale, where
there is another fine chimney-piece which, however, was much less
interesting than the one we had just seen. This room is further
embellished with several frescoes by Guffens and Swerts, examples of
whose work we had already seen at Ypres. The former artist painted the
large composition entitled the "Departure of Baldwin IX for
Constantinople," and the latter the more interesting picture of the
Consultation of the Flemish leaders in this very room the day before
the Battle of Courtrai. Smaller frescoes depict other notable scenes
in the old town's history, while small carvings near the ceiling
represent the chief virtues of an upright judge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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