The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
Unlike many Flemish towns, Courtrai is less renowned for its churches
than for its civic monuments. The great church of St. Martin, whose
picturesque Gothic tower rises high above the Grande Place, although
the edifice itself is some hundred yards distant from the Place
itself, dates from 1382, when an older church on the same site was
burned by the victorious troops of Charles VI when they sacked the
city after the Battle of Rosbecque. It was completed in 1439 and
contains a number of interesting paintings and carvings, several of
them by local artists and sculptors. The more important Church of
Notre Dame, with its square unfinished tower, dates from 1211 and was
founded by Baldwin of Constantinople. At that time the Counts of
Flanders had a castle at Courtrai and it was at the side of this that
Count Baldwin and his fair wife Marie located their great church, of
which the foundation stone was laid before the Count departed on the
crusade from which he was destined never to return. In the Chapel of
the Counts, which was built in the fourteenth century, are mural
paintings of the Counts and Countesses of Flanders, the earlier ones
dating from the century during which the chapel itself was
constructed.
The artistic masterpiece of this church is the "Raising of the Cross,"
by Van Dyck. This fine picture was painted for this very church and
was delivered by the artist in 1631, the church still possessing his
receipt for the one hundred livres de gros (about two hundred and
twenty dollars) paid for it. In 1794 the picture was carried to Paris
and placed in the Louvre, and on its restoration to the Netherlands
was several years in the museum at Brussels, being returned to its
proper place in Notre Dame in 1817. During the night of December
6th-7th, 1907, it was mysteriously stolen, its disappearance causing a
great commotion, but January 23rd it was discovered in a field at
Pitthem, where it had lain exposed to the rain and sunshine since its
removal from the church. Apparently the robbers had become frightened
and abandoned it, or possibly were prevented from returning to get it
by the hue and cry that had been raised. At any rate, it did not seem
to be much the worse for its little outing, and was duly hung up again
where any tourist who has a franc to spare can see it.
It was in Notre Dame that the victors after the battle of Courtrai
hung up seven hundred golden spurs, more or less, picked up from the
battle-field. These were hung in a little side chapel at present
decorated by two black lions, but the original spurs were taken away
when the French sacked the city after the disastrous battle of
Rosbecque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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