The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
The Department of War, which had been granted the buildings of the
abbey, continued the work of the ecclesiastical housebreakers. It tore
down a small Renaissance cloister. Had it not been for the intervention
of the Archaeological Society of Soissons, it would have destroyed the
two galleries of the great cloister which still stand. Finally, in 1870,
the German shells did great damage and set a fire which calcined the
lower part of the portal.
* * * * *
Today, a part of the ruins has been placed in charge of the
Administration of Fine Arts. It is possible to visit the towers, the
organ platform and the great cloister.
It is a lamentable spectacle, that of this magnificent façade, now
isolated like a useless stage setting: through the three bays of the
portal we perceive the ground which was carefully leveled, in accordance
with the orders of Mgr. Leblanc de Beaulieu; the great rose window is an
empty hole against the sky. Nevertheless, how precious this fragment of
a church still is! What masterpieces of grace and boldness are these
two towers, unlike, but both so perfect, with their galleries, their
arcades, their pinnacles, their bell towers and their stone spires. And
what admirable carvings! There are, under the elegant canopies attached
to each story of the towers, the images--alas! too often mutilated
by the Huguenots or by the Revolutionists--of the Apostles and the
Evangelists; there is the crucified Christ upon the window bars of the
great tower window; there are, above all, on the two sides of the rose
window, the touching and expressive statues of Our Lady of Sorrow and of
Saint John the Evangelist.
Two of the galleries of the cloister have disappeared. The other two
present arcades of a charming design. Ornaments of rare delicacy frame
the inner door. Heads of monsters decorate the gargoyles. About the
capitals and upon the bases of the corbels are twined allegorical
flowers of perfect execution: here the vines which recall the name of
the abbey itself, there the ivy and the wormwood to which Saint John
the Baptist, patron saint of the monastery, communicated the virtue of
counteracting witchcraft; elsewhere the oak, the apple, the strawberry,
the wild geranium, all the plants which in the Middle Ages were reputed
to cure ills of the throat, for, until the last century, it needed but a
pilgrimage to Saint-Jean-des-Vignes to be freed from quinsy. [23]
And this is all that one is allowed to see of the abbey of
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. Whoever is curious to become acquainted with the
last remnants of the Renaissance cloister (a few arches and four very
beautiful stone medallions) and to enter the ancient refectory of the
abbey, will run against the veto of military authority.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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