The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
What led Cérutti to describe the gardens of Betz? I despaired of
discovering what circumstances might have placed him in the household
of the Princess of Monaco, until I noticed, scattered through his poem,
some verses which had been engraved in the Temple of Friendship at
Betz. So Cérutti had been charged with composing the mottoes and the
inscriptions indispensable to every English garden. Such a task was
well suited to his poetic talent: it seemed to agree less well with his
philosophical convictions. But the philosopher required the poet, in
accomplishing his task, to tell the truth to the clergy as well as to
the nobility. Thus Cérutti's conscience was appeased. Madame de Monaco,
doubtless, was less satisfied. This perhaps explains why the poem was
not published until 1792; the nation had then confiscated the chateau
and the beautiful gardens, and the princess was living a life of exile
at Mayence, where, for her glory, a better poet than Cérutti sketched
her charming portrait in five lines.
Let us follow the sinuous ways which lead across the park to the
different "scenes" invented for the amusement of the Princess of Monaco.
The author of the poem, Les jardins de Betz, Cérutti, will revive for us
the buildings which are gone. He is a prosy guide, somewhat of a
ninny. But his heavy diatribes on priests, nobles and kings make the
description of these childish fancies almost tragic. Behind the canvas
so pleasingly covered by Hubert Robert, we might almost believe we could
hear the heavy tramp of the stage hands preparing for the change of
scene.
The chateau which was inhabited by the Princess of Monaco stood on an
island in the Grivette, quite near the village of Betz. Its towers were
reflected in the river, on which floated white swans. Baskets of flowers
ornamented the banks. Farther up, the Grivette formed another isle,
embellished with exotic shrubs and an oriental kiosk. A Chinese bridge
joined it to the park, and little junks were moored to the margin. Pekin
gave this kiosk and Nankin these light boats.
Nothing more remains of the château, which was sold during the
Revolution and was totally demolished in 1817. There also remains
nothing more of these Chinese fancies, by which the landscape artists of
the eighteenth century endeavored to recall the true origin of irregular
gardens. The rotted planks of the Chinese bridge fell into the little
river long ago.
In vain also would we seek some trace of the "Druid Temple." To erect
this curious construction, this "little bosky oratory," there had been
chosen for cutting young oaks of equal thickness and perfectly straight;
they had been cut off at the same height and planted in a circle on
an isolated mound; then this circular palisade was crowned by a wooden
cupola, whence were suspended pine cones and tufts of sacred mistletoe.
On beholding this spectacle Cérutti burst forth:
Who would believe it? This place so pure and peaceful
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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