The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
And he immediately adds a note of which I reproduce only these few
lines: "I am very far from confounding modern castles with ancient
ones, and the castellans of today with those of former times. The modern
chateaux are not soiled with the blood of their vassals, but how
many are still bathed in their tears!... The castellans of today are,
however, distinguished for the most part by a reputation for humanity,
philosophy, politeness. But let us plumb these shining exteriors. In
these so human mortals, you will find... tyrants inflexible to their
inferiors. Their philosophy is still less solid than their humanity....
As to this politeness so vaunted by them, it is in the final analysis
nothing but the art of graduating and seasoning scorn, so that one
does not perceive it and even enjoys it.... They seem to except you,
to distinguish you from the common herd; but try to emerge from it, and
they will thrust you back." The whole bit would be worth quoting. It is
beautiful, this outpouring of venom on account of a garden pavilion!
In the midst of a thicket, in a place which was formerly open, a little
pyramid stands on a high base. The inscription which it formerly bore in
golden letters:
L'INDEPENDANCE AMERICAINE
has disappeared. Reflections of Cérutti upon "the impetuous car of
revolutions": events have combined to give them a certain opportuneness
here.
The mingling of centuries and the diversity of allusions were one of
the laws of the composition of an English garden. This is why, a little
farther on, we penetrate to the "Valley of Tombs." A Latin inscription
invites visitors to meditation and silence. An avenue of cypress, of
larches, of pines, of junipers, "of all the family of melancholy
trees," led to the tombs and disposed the soul to meditation. Sepulchers
"without worldly pomp and without curious artistry," bore naïve
epitaphs. Here were the tombs of Thybaud de Betz, dead on a Crusade,
and of Adèle de Crépy, who, having followed her knight to the Holy Land,
brought back his mortal remains and "fell dead of grief, at the last
stroke of the chisel which finished ornamenting this monument." The
epitaphs were engraved in Gothic characters; for "this Gothic form is
something more romantic than the Greek and the Roman." It is needless
to remark that these tombs were simple monuments intended for the
ornamentation of the garden and that no lord of Betz was ever buried in
this place. Some of the "melancholy trees" planted by the Princess of
Monaco still remain among the thickets which have since grown in the
"Valley of Tombs," which valley was an "elevated esplanade": a pleasing
incongruity of the friends of nature! As to the tombs, there remain only
a few mutilated remnants of the statues of the two recumbent figures.
*****
After the inevitable tombs, come the inevitable chapel and the
inevitable hermitage. But the hermitage of Betz possessed this much
originality, that it was inhabited by an actual hermit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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