The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
In the note which he left as a sequel to this poem, Lamartine relates
that, in 1819, the Due de Rohan was introduced to him by Duc Mathieu de
Montmorency. "We became close friends without his ever making me feel,
and without my ever allowing myself to forget, by that natural tact
which is the etiquette of nature, the distance which he indeed wished
to bridge, but which nevertheless existed between two names which poesy
alone could bring together for an instant." This is exquisite, with an
affectation of respect which borders on impertinence.
The Meditation is entitled Holy Week at La Roche-Guyon. Not a line
of this grand lyric piece reveals that it was conceived in this place
rather than in any other. Lamartine has thus attempted to justify his
title: "The principal ornament of the château," he writes, "was a chapel
hollowed in the rock, a true catacomb, affecting, in the cavernous
circumvolutions of the mountain, the form of the naves, the choirs, the
pillars, the rood-lofts, of a cathedral. He induced me to go to pass
Holy Week there with him. He took me there himself.... The religious
service, _pious voluptuousness_ of the Duc de Rohan, was celebrated
every day in this subterranean church, with a pomp, a luxury, and holy
enchantments, which intoxicate youthful imaginations...."
The picture is delightful. Unfortunately it entirely emerged from the
"youthful imagination" of Lamartine. The subterranean church still
exists at La Roche-Guyon, just as in the time of the Duc de Rohan.
But the triple chapel, cut in the hill, and sufficiently lighted
from outside, has nowise the appearance of a catacomb. There are no
"cavernous circumvolutions," naves, choirs, pillars, rood-lofts. The
cathedral is composed of three little vaulted rooms....
And I now think of the honest Boileau. He would not have mystified us or
himself in this manner! It is true that you and I would give the whole
epistle to Lamoignon for this single line:
Sailors whose star has set, ashore! here is the port.
XI. NOYON
|THE light softens and dims, even in these days of the dog star, and,
under this heaven of palest azure, the puissant harmony of verdure and
red bricks announces the neighborhood of Flanders. Only the stone towers
of the cathedral dominate with their gray mass the ruddy buildings and
the leafage of the gardens.
Noyon possessed immense convents which were razed during the Revolution.
Scattered remnants still mark the sites of these monasteries; here an
apse transformed into a storehouse, there the façade of a chapel. The
monks have departed; but the town has retained a monastic aspect; and
it is a place where one might make a retreat. In the silence of the
melancholy streets, the pavements seem to ring more sonorously, and the
passer listens with surprise to the echo of his steps between the silent
houses....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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