The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
Upon the market place, the delicate and florid façade of the old Hôtel
de Ville of the Renaissance calls up the images of communal life,
peculiar to the little cities of the north; we look for the belfry
tower, we expect to hear the chimes; but the disputatious commune of
the Middle Ages is now a wise, sad and pensive little town. In the
staircase, sculptures in high relief portray the heavy gayeties of
northern climes; but Noyon is now a wise, sad and decent little town.
On the same square stands a curious fountain provided by the liberality
of an eighteenth-century prelate. Statues of the cardinal virtues
decorate its pedestal from which rises an obelisk, surrounded by emblems
and allegories; we see there a Cupid caressing a lamb, quivers, arrows,
a hound,--symbols of innocent love and of fidelity. An inscription
placed upon the monument recalls to the people of Noyon that among them
Chilpéric II was buried, Charlemagne consecrated and Hugh Capet elected
king. I do not know whether this inscription is as old as the fountain:
it has a certain grandeur in its conciseness; let us praise the towns
which thus array themselves in their past glories, and recall the part
which they have played in the destinies of France....
With its houses of brick and its gardens surrounded by high walls,
its silence and its memories, Noyon would merit the tenderness of its
people, even if Noyon did not possess its admirable cathedral....
What a charming picture is made by the apse, with its radiating chapels!
Torch holders ornament the flying buttresses, which were restored in the
eighteenth century: they drive to despair the pure archaeologists and
fill with joy men without taste who, insensitive to unity of style,
love to hear monuments tell their history, their whole history. To this
harmonious apse is joined the treasury, and then a fine structure with
wooden panels of the sixteenth century, the library of the canons: its
street floor was formerly arcaded and sheltered a market; alas! it has
been walled up,... Behind, the buildings of the chapter house, hovels,
turrets, an arcade thrown across the street, a high crenellated
wall, surround the cloister and the flanks of the cathedral; and the
picturesqueness of these disordered lines is delightful.
On the other side of the apse appears a lamentable breach. Here formerly
stood the chapel of the bishopry; it was attached to the crossing of
the church and thus the little portal of the transept was exquisitely
framed. This thirteenth-century chapel was long since abandoned; it
had lost its ancient roof; but these ancient walls should have been
respected. To free the cathedral, they have been leveled to the
ground.... Not quite, however, for the owner of a cellar excavated
beneath this chapel resisted the efforts of the architect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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