Generally the requirements of the golfer are in inverse ratio to those
of the tourist, and it is tolerably safe to predict that when a coast is
described as “extremely desolate,” it represents a fine piece of golfing
country. It is one of the good things of golf that it has come into our
civilisation to use up all utterly barren and waste tracts of coastwise
land, and that generally the more barren and waste the better they are
for golf. Are not some of the best links there are in Britain situated
on coasts that are to the non-golfing mind, uneducated to the beauty and
charm of testing, full-blooded and yet scrupulously fair holes, quite
naked of all attraction? And what an excellent arrangement of
circumstances it is! The neighbourhood of Prestwick is sometimes by way
of being “boomed” as a health resort, a place that affords a fine tonic
to the lungs, and I believe the claim is well justified; but not all
people would describe this spot in Ayrshire as being “interesting,” and
there is certainly no kind of relation between the quality of the coast
scenery and the inestimable grandeur, from the golfing point of view, of
the Cardinal, the Himalayas, and above all of the glorious seventeenth,
the Alps. And consider Sandwich. No tourist of discrimination has been
seen, or will be, on these reclaimed wastes that have already given us
one championship course, and lately a new links, which is of superlative
quality. And the “extremely desolate” coast at Porthcawl which did not
please our guide-book man, is found on acquaintance to be an excellent
example of Nature’s impressionist seascape work, with savage rocks
abounding. Even the name of Porthcawl smacks of coves and pirates, of
breezes and big seas. Porthcawl sticks out so that there is nothing in
the world between it and the United States of America except the
Atlantic Ocean. Its golf links are on the very margin of the sea,
contiguous to those black, sharp rocks--so near, indeed, that a really
badly-hit ball may sometimes be sent dancing at all kinds of fantastic
angles from one to another, until it comes to rest in an inaccessible
place whence it will never be disturbed. Sometimes in the severer
seasons, the sea, with the full, unbroken force of the Atlantic behind
it, will be sent smashing along over the rocks, and even over the golf
links too, until some of the bunkers are laden with salt water.
Porthcawl is fine, and it is a fine change, and there are holes on the
course that have a boldness and a vigour that stir the pulse of the
golfing man. We play over the wall and up the hill to the turn, and
there is South Wales and its ocean frame spread out at our feet, making
us linger upon a glorious scene and sigh a little as we drive down the
hillside to the first hole in.
IX
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