After ten days or so of fishing in the Pass we heard they were getting a
good many fish at Port Myers, so we returned there, quitting our idyllic
life at Captiva with much regret. It is a lovely trip by steamer between
these two places. The river is thickly studded with islands of all
shapes and sizes, some flat and low, covered with an impenetrable
thicket of mangroves, others larger with a few houses and probably an
hotel. We called at two or three of the more important ones, always
finding the same scene, a dilapidated wooden pier, constructed on
slender piles standing far out into the river, where most of the people
gathered for the event of the day, the arrival of our boat. A
queer-looking motley crowd they were, coloured people of all shades of
blacks and browns and dirty yellows, languid, lazy-looking "crackers,"
as the native Floridians are called, with here and there a pretty girl
in a sun bonnet, flirting with the lanky and very leggy young men in
shirt sleeves and sombrero-like hats. All were lounging in the sun, most
of them with a line, pulling up cat-fish, sea-trout, jack-fish, or
sheepsheads, as fast as they put the bait in.
The sea is a wondrous emerald green, and we lean over the side of the
boat watching the rolling porpoises, some of which follow us for miles,
and catching an occasional glimpse of an evil-looking shark, or again
passing through huge shoals of stingarees, like enormous submarine birds
with their flapping wing-like sides. The day wears on in warm drowsiness
till at last we approach Fort Myers, and are met at the dock with eager
enquiries and congratulations on our successful expedition to the Pass.
By the 15th of May the weather had become very hot, and the mosquitos
very bad, and all the other fishermen having already taken their
departure, we felt our time had also come. It was only a few days before
we left, that I caught what was supposed to be a record fish in point of
length, 7-ft. 1/2-in., weight, 156-lbs.
On a blazing morning we lingeringly and regretfully bade farewell to
Fort Myers, where we made so many pleasant friends, and had such
glorious sport, and we had a blazing ten hours passage on the _Laurence_
up to Punta Gorda, so that we hailed the evening cool with thankfulness.
At Punta Gorda the big hotel was closed, and the visitors and fishermen
had all fled long since, but we found a room in which to pass the short
time that elapsed till the train was ready to start for Jacksonville.
There we arrived after twelve hot weary hours in the cars. We waited
there two nights for the boat to New York. Jacksonville is the chief
town in Florida, and a most bustling and amusing place to see.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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